Enfilade

From the conference website:

Fashioning Identities: Types, Customs, and Dress in a Global Context
Hunter College, City University of New York, 17–19 October 2013

Pictorial imagery of local types, traditions, and dress has a long history. From costume books and street criers to travel albums and Hispanic costumbrismo, such representations captured people and daily life in a purportedly realistic manner, often emphasizing specificity over universal themes. Popular types, customs, and dress served as both sources of national pride and exotic spectacles of regional traditions. These depictions of local color often valued certain practices, regions, or types over others and were directed to native and foreign audiences alike. They came to have a global reach, serving as authoritative vehicles to disseminate values and beliefs about an individual place or people and cementing imperial ambitions, political ties, and economic networks. This symposium will explore the nuanced and complex ways in which such representations of peoples, places, and cultures—sometimes viewed as portraying a static or conservative vision—simultaneously engaged with the increasingly industrialized and global world.

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7:00 pm, Kossack Lecture Hall, Hunter North 1527

Keynote Address: Natalia Majluf (Director of the Museo de Arte de Lima), Materiality: José Gil de Castro and the Portraiture of Things

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Ida K. Lang Recital Hall, Hunter North 424

9:30–11:15  Ethnographies

Heather A. Hughes (University of Pennsylvania), Good Habits, Bad Habits: The Global Order in Robert Vaughan’s Months

Mariana Françozo (Leiden University and the National Museum of Ethnology, The Netherlands), Early Modern Comparative Ethnography: The ‘Locke Drawings’ Collection and the Representation of Indigenous Peoples in Global Perspective, c. 1680–1750

Deborah Dorotinsky (Instituto de Investigaciones Estéticas, UNAM, Mexico City), It Is Written in Their Faces: Seri Women and Facial Painting in Photography

11:15  Coffee

11:30–1:00  Intersections of Tradition & Modernity

Vanesa Rodríguez-Galindo (UNED, Madrid), Contemporary Customs in Late Nineteenth-Century Madrid: Points of Convergence between the Popular and the Modern in the Illustrated and Comical Press

Lynda Klich (Hunter College, CUNY), Circulating Indigenism in Mauricio Yáñez’s Postcards from Mexico

Denise Birkhofer (Allen Memorial Art Museum, Oberlin College), Enrique Díaz’s Parade of Progress: Fashioning a Streamlined Mexican Future

1:00–3:00  Lunch

3:00–5:00  Exoticism & Empire

Matthew Keagle (Bard Graduate Center), Uniform Schemas: The Abstraction of Dress and The Unity of Uniforms

Elisabeth Fraser (University of South Florida), The Ottoman Costume Album and Inclusive Empire: Louis Dupré in Ottoman Greece

Victoria L. Rovine (University of Florida), Fashion at the Intersection of French and African Colonial Cultures

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Ida K. Lang Recital Hall, Hunter North 424

9:30–11:00  Gender Anxieties

Ann Jones (Smith College), Merchandising Gender: Women’s Dress and Women’s Duties in Two Sixteenth-Century Costume Books, Jost Amman’s Frauenzimmer/Gynaeceum and Cesare Vecellio’s Habiti antichi et moderni (1590 and 1598)

Leyla Belkaïd (University of Lyon), A Stylistic Change and Its Pictorial Representation: The Algiers Dress in Western Imagery

Maya Jiménez (Kingsborough Community College, CUNY), The Myth of the Bahiana in Nineteenth-Century Photography

11:00  Coffee

11:30–1:00  Social & Civic Life

Eugenia Paulicelli (Queens College and The Graduate Center, CUNY), Performing Dress: Love, Politics and “venezianità” in Giacomo Franco’s Habiti d’huomini et donne venetiane

Sarah Buck (Florida State University), Les Costumes grotesques (c. 1695): Prints and Professional Habits in the ancien régime

Emily Morgan (Iowa State University), ‘True Types of the London Poor’:  Street Life in London‘s Transitional Typology

1:00–3:00  Lunch

3:00–5:00  Masquerade & Appropriation

Ashley Bruckbauer (University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill), Playing the Ambassador and the ‘Other’: Cultural Cross-dressing and French Foreign Policy in the Eighteenth and Early-Nineteenth Centuries

Tara Zanardi (Hunter College, CUNY), The Mantón de Manila at the Crossroads of Identity

Teresa Eckmann (University of Texas at San Antonio), Playing the Devil’s Advocate with a Twist: Julio Galán and Lo mexicano

Charlene Lau (York University), Sartorial Remembrance: Bernhard Willhelm and Tirolean Folk Dress