Enfilade

Textile with Pink, Red and Blue Flowers, Iran, 1700–22, silk and metal-wrapped thread
(Doha: Museum of Islamic Art, 2014.282)

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From the press release (via Art Daily) for the exhibition:

Fashioning an Empire: Textiles from Safavid Iran
Smithsonian’s National Museum of Asian Art, Washington, DC, 18 December 2021 — 15 May 2022
Museum of Islamic Art, Doha, 23 October 2023 — 20 April 2024

The Museum of Islamic Art, Doha is currently showcasing Fashioning an Empire: Textiles from Safavid Iran, a captivating exhibition that highlights the critical role silk played during the Safavid period (1501–1736). The exhibition is organised into four sections: starting with the establishment of the silk monopoly and state-funded manufacturing and exploring the production and technical components of textiles; the rise of Isfahan as imperial capital; fashion and trends in Safavid society; and lastly, contemporary commissions created by local designers inspired by Safavid textiles. Fashioning an Empire was conceived by and first presented at the Smithsonian’s National Museum of Asian Art, Washington, DC (2021–22).

Silk’s complex manufacturing process and supple feel against the skin make it a valuable and highly prized luxury good. Since the 6th century, Iran has produced high quality silk, widely appreciated and traded long distances. It was, however, during the reign of Iran’s most important ruler in modern history, Shah ‘Abbas I the Great (r. 1588–1629), that silk became a state-controlled industry—it boosted the country’s economy by supplying both an eager internal demand and feeding a vigorous export market spanning from England to Thailand. Shah ‘Abbas was the fifth shah of the Safavid dynasty (1501–1722). Under the Safavids, Iran experienced a period of renewed political strength and artistic creativity, geographical borders were consolidated, and most of the population adopted Shi‘a Islam, which became the country’s official state religion. The rise of the silk economy during Shah ‘Abbas’s reign had effects beyond the markets, inspiring artistic development and fostering cultural exchange.

Born out of a collaboration with the National Museum of Asian Art in Washington, DC, the exhibition explores the development of the silk industry under Shah ‘Abbas. It presents the capital city of Isfahan as the heart of the Safavid state and showcases fashion styles during a time when Iran established itself as a major player in the global arena.

The exhibition ends with a series of contemporary works created by Qatar-based designers in collaboration with M7, Qatar’s epicentre for innovation and entrepreneurship in fashion and design. Their artworks respond to the splendid historic textiles on display and illustrate the powerful creativity that Safavid silks still inspire in today’s creative minds.