New Book Series | Gender and Art in the Museum: The Prado Collection

Peter Paul Rubens and Jan Brueghel the Elder, The Infanta Isabel Clara Eugenia, ca. 1615, oil on canvas, 113 × 176 cm
(Madrid: Prado)
◊ ◊ ◊ ◊ ◊
From the Prado’s press release announcing this series from Amsterdam University Press:
This ambitious new series from Amsterdam University Press approaches the study of the collections in the Prado Museum from a gender perspective, exploring the women who became artists and the many women who promoted artists and collected works of art, as well as the women who inspired some of the masterpieces in this institution. It will offer new insights on a wide range of topics on art and women and their interactions with politics, money, and power.
Edited by Noelia García Pérez, director of The Female Perspective project, the series arises from the Prado’s firm commitment to making the role of women in the world of art visible. Studies will address the output of women artists and their presence or absence in the galleries, links between the formation of the Prado’s collections and women artistic promoters, and the role of women in inspiring some of the Prado’s masterpieces.
While women patrons and artists have motivated a significant number of publications in recent decades, this is the first series to address the study of the creation of one of the largest art collections in the world, now housed in the Museo del Prado, through a gender perspective, focusing on the women who promoted, inspired, created, donated, and conserved many of the works preserved and displayed in the institution in order to demonstrate the crucial role that they played in the production, promotion, dissemination, and conservation of art. With a broad chronology corresponding to the Prado’s collections, the series will foreground the role of women and their relationship with the arts, as well as the evolution of this important institution and its connection with them.
The editorial committee includes Estrella de Diego (Universidad Complutense de Madrid), Sheila Ffolliott (George Mason University), M. José Rodríguez Salgado (The London School of Economics and Political Sience-Oxford University), Alejandro Vergara (Museo del Prado), Carmen Gaitán (CSIC), and Sheila Barker (director of the prestigious Jane Fortune Research Program on Women Artists / Medici Archive Project).
New Book | Policing Same-Sex Relations in Eighteenth-Century Paris
From Penn State University Press:
Jeffrey Merrick, ed., Policing Same-Sex Relations in Eighteenth-Century Paris: Archival Voices from 1785 (University Park: Penn State University Press, 2024), 264 pages, ISBN: 978-0271097114, $125.
Police in Paris arrested thousands of men for sodomy or similar acts in the eighteenth century. In the mid-1780s, they recorded depositions in which prisoners recounted their own sexual histories. These remarkable documents, curated and translated into English by Jeffrey Merrick, allow us to hear the voices of men who desired men and to explore complex questions about sources, patterns, and meanings in the history of sexuality. This volume centers on two cartons of paperwork from commissaire Charles Convers Desormeaux. Dated from 1785, the cartons contain 221 dossiers of men arrested for sodomy or similar acts in Paris. Merrick translates and annotates the police interviews from these dossiers, revealing how the police and those they arrested understood sex between men at the time. Merrick discusses the implications of what the men said (and what they did not say), how they said it, and in what contexts it was said.
The best-known works of clergy and jurists, of enemies and advocates of Enlightenment, and of novelists and satirists from the eighteenth century tell us nothing at all about the lived experience of men who desired men. In these police dossiers, Merrick allows them to speak in their own words. This primary text brings together a wealth of important information that will appeal to scholars, students, and general readers interested in the history of sexuality, sodomy, and sexual policing.
Jeffrey Merrick is Professor Emeritus of History at the University of Wisconsin–Milwaukee. His books include Sodomy in Eighteenth-Century France and Sodomites, Pederasts, and Tribades in Eighteenth-Century France, the latter also published by Penn State University Press.
New Book | Forbidden Desire in Early Modern Europe
From Oxford UP:
Noel Malcolm, Forbidden Desire in Early Modern Europe: Male-Male Sexual Relations, 1400–1750 (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2024), 608 pages, ISBN: 978-0198886334, $33.
A landmark study of the history of male-male sex in early modern Europe, including the European colonies and the Ottoman world.
Until quite recently, the history of male-male sexual relations was a taboo topic. But when historians eventually explored the archives of Florence, Venice, and elsewhere, they brought to light an extraordinary world of early modern sexual activity, extending from city streets and gardens to taverns, monasteries, and Mediterranean galleys. Typically, the sodomites (as they were called) were adult men seeking sex with teenage boys. This was something intriguingly different from modern homosexuality: the boys ceased to be desired when they became fully masculine. And the desire for them was seen as natural; no special sexual orientation was assumed.
The rich evidence from Southern Europe in the Renaissance period was not matched in the Northern lands; historians struggled to apply this new knowledge to countries such as England or its North American colonies. And when good Northern evidence did appear, from after 1700, it presented a very different picture. So the theory was formed—and it has dominated most standard accounts until now—that the ’emergence of modern homosexuality’ happened suddenly, but inexplicably, at the beginning of the eighteenth century.
Noel Malcolm’s masterly study solves this and many other problems, by doing something which no previous scholar has attempted: giving a truly pan-European account of the whole phenomenon of male-male sexual relations in the early modern period. It includes the Ottoman Empire, as well as the European colonies in the Americas and Asia; it describes the religious and legal norms, both Christian and Muslim; it discusses the literary representations in both Western Europe and the Ottoman world; and it presents a mass of individual human stories, from New England to North Africa, from Scandinavia to Peru. Original, critical, lucidly written and deeply researched, this work will change the way we think about the history of homosexuality in early modern Europe.
Sir Noel Malcolm gained his doctorate at Cambridge, where he began his career as a Fellow of Gonville and Caius College, teaching history and English literature; he was later foreign editor of The Spectator. In 1999 he was a lecturer at Harvard; he gave the Carlyle Lectures at Oxford in 2001. Since 2002 he has been a Senior Research Fellow at All Souls College, Oxford. A Fellow of the British Academy, he has published numerous books and articles on early modern intellectual history, and Balkan history and culture. He was knighted in 2014 for services to scholarship, journalism, and European history.
New Book | All the World Beside
From Penguin Random House:
Garrard Conley, All the World Beside: A Novel (New York: Riverhead Books, 2024), 352 pages, ISBN: 978-0525537335, $28.
From the New York Times bestselling author of Boy Erased, an electrifying, deeply moving novel about the love story between two men in Puritan New England
Cana, Massachusetts: a utopian vision of 18th-century Puritan New England. To the outside world, Reverend Nathaniel Whitfield and his family stand as godly pillars of their small-town community, drawing Christians from across the New World into their fold. One such Christian, physician Arthur Lyman, discovers in the minister’s words a love so captivating it transcends language. As the bond between these two men grows more and more passionate, their families must contend with a tangled web of secrets, lies, and judgments which threaten to destroy them in this world and the next. And when the religious ecstasies of the Great Awakening begin to take hold, igniting a new era of zealotry, Nathaniel and Arthur search for a path out of an impossible situation, imagining a future for themselves which has no name. Their wives and children must do the same, looking beyond the known world for a new kind of wilderness, both physical and spiritual.
Set during the turbulent historical upheavals which shaped America’s destiny and following in the tradition of Nathaniel Hawthorne’s The Scarlet Letter, All the World Beside reveals the very human lives just beneath the surface of dogmatic belief. Bestselling author Garrard Conley has created a page-turning, vividly imagined historical tale that is both a love story and a crucible.
Garrard Conley is the New York Times bestselling author of the memoir Boy Erased, as well as the creator and co-producer of the podcast UnErased: The History of Conversion Therapy in America. His work has been published by The New York Times, Oxford American, Time, and Virginia Quarterly Review, among others. Conley is a graduate of Brooklyn College’s MFA program, where he was a Truman Capote Fellow specializing in fiction. He is an assistant professor of creative writing at Kennesaw State University.
New Book | Unsuitable: A History of Lesbian Fashion
From Hurst, with chapters on cross dressing in 18th-century Britain and Anne Lister. . .
Eleanor Medhurst, Unsuitable: A History of Lesbian Fashion (London: Hurst & Company, 2024), 344 pages, ISBN: 978-1805260967, £25 / $35.
The way we dress can show or hide who we are; make us fit in, make us stand out, or make our own community. Yet ‘lesbian fashion’ has been strangely overlooked. What secrets can it reveal about the lives and status of queer women through the ages?
The lesbian past is slippery: often deliberately hidden, edited, or left unrecorded. Unsuitable restores to history the dazzlingly varied clothes worn by women who love women, from top hats to violet tiaras. This story spans centuries and countries, from ‘Gentleman Jack’ in nineteenth-century Yorkshire and Queen Christina of seventeenth-century Sweden, to Paris modernism, genderqueer Berlin, butch/femme bar culture and gay rights activists—via drag kings, Vogue editors, and the Harlem Renaissance. This book is a kaleidoscope of the margins and the mainstream, celebrating trans lesbian style, Black lesbian style, and gender nonconformity. You don’t have to be queer or fashionable to be enthralled by this hidden history. Unsuitable lights it up for the world to see, in all its finery.
Eleanor Medhurst is a historian of lesbian fashion and author of the blog Dressing Dykes. She has worked on Brighton Museum’s exhibitions Queer Looks and Queer the Pier and been interviewed by Grazia, Cosmopolitan, Cameron Esposito’s Queery, and Gillian Anderson’s What Do I Know?! This is her first book.
New Book | Love and Marriage in the Age of Jane Austen
From Yale UP:
Rory Muir, Love and Marriage in the Age of Jane Austen (New Haven: Yale University Press, 2024), 432 pages, ISBN: 978-0300269604, $35.
Marriage is at the centre of Jane Austen’s novels. The pursuit of husbands and wives, advantageous matches, and, of course, love itself, motivate her characters and continue to fascinate readers today. But what were love and marriage like in reality for ladies and gentlemen in Regency England? Rory Muir uncovers the excitements and disappointments of courtship and the pains and pleasures of marriage, drawing on fascinating first-hand accounts as well as novels of the period. From the glamour of the ballroom to the pressures of careers, children, managing money, and difficult in-laws, love and marriage came in many guises: some wed happily, some dared to elope, and other relationships ended with acrimony, adultery, domestic abuse, or divorce. Muir illuminates the position of both men and women in marriage, as well as those spinsters and bachelors who chose not to marry at all. This is a richly textured account of how love and marriage felt for people at the time—revealing their unspoken assumptions, fears, pleasures, and delights.
Rory Muir is a visiting research fellow at the University of Adelaide and a renowned expert on British history. His books include Gentlemen of Uncertain Fortune and his two-part biography of Wellington, which won the SAHR Templer Medal.
The Burlington Magazine, May 2024
From the May issue of The Burlington, which is dedicated to French art — and please note that Yuriko Jackall’s important article is currently available for free, even without a subscription.
Burlington Magazine 166 (May 2024)

Jean-Honoré Fragonard, The Swing, 1767, oil on canvas, 81 × 64 cm (London: Wallace Collection).
a r t i c l e s
• Ludovic Jouvet, “A Medal of the Sun King by Claude I Ballin,” pp. 440–45.
• Yuriko Jackall, “The Swing by Jean-Honoré Fragonard: New Hypotheses,” pp. 446–69.
• Thadeus Dowad, “Dāvūd Gürcü, Ottoman Refugee, and Girodet’s First Mamluk Model,” pp. 479–87.
• Humphrey Wine, “The Paintings Collection of Denis Mariette,” pp. 488–92.
r e v i e w s
• Richard Stemp, Review of Ingenious Women: Women Artists and their Companions (Hamburg: Bucerius Kunst Forum / Basel: Kunstmuseum, 2023–24), pp. 501–04.
• Christoph Martin Vogtherr, Review of Louis XV: Passion d’un roi (Château de Versailles, 2022), pp. 508–10.
• Eric Zafran, Review of The Hub of the World: Art in Eighteenth-Century Rome (Nicholas Hall, 2023), pp. 515–18.
• Saffron East, Review of Black Atlantic: Power, People, Resistance (Cambridge: Fitzwilliam, 2023), 523–25.
• Gauvin Alexander Bailey, Review of Marsely Kehoe, Trade, Globalization, and Dutch Art and Architecture:
Interrogating Dutchness and the Golden Age (Amsterdam UP, 2023), pp. 534–35.
• Helen Clifford, Review of Vanessa Brett, Knick-Knackery: The Deards’ Family and Their Luxury Shops, 1685–1785 (2023) pp. 535–37.
o b i t u a r y
• Michael Hall, Obituary for Jacob Rothschild (1936–2024), pp. 538–40.
One of the leading public figures in the arts in the United Kingdom, Lord Rothschild was a major collector of historic art and a patron of contemporary artists and architects. His principal focus was Waddesdon Manor, his family’s Victorian country house and estate in Buckinghamshire.
◊ ◊ ◊ ◊ ◊
Jean-Honoré Fragonard was one of the supreme exponents of the French Rococo style and his painting The Swing in the Wallace Collection, London, is perhaps his most famous work. Yet despite this elevated status, mystery surrounds its origins. New documentary and technical research presented here by Yuriko Jackall may, however, have finally established for whom it was painted and why the painting was hidden away for the first few years of its existence.
The May issue also includes the publication by Ludovic Jouvet of a previously unknown and spectacular medal of the Sun King, Louis XIV, as well as Humphrey Wine’s study of the intriguing collection of the publisher Denis Mariette (the uncle of the more famous Pierre-Jean Mariette). Other articles feature the work of French Romantic painters: Andrew Watson establishes the early history of Delacroix’s The Death of Sardanapalus in the Musée du Louvre, Paris, and Thadeus Dowad identifies Girodet’s first Mamluk model.
Exhibition reviews include Sarah Whitfield discussing Bonnard’s Worlds (Kimbell Art Museum, Fort Worth, and the Phillips Collection, Washington) and Lisa Stein assessing Saul Leiter (MK Gallery, Milton Keynes). Catalogue reviews feature Christoph Martin Vogtherr on Louis XV, Lunarita Sterpetti on Eleonora of Toledo, and Eric M. Zafran surveying art in eighteenth-century Rome. Meanwhile, an impressive and wide range of new books are examined: these feature Megan McNamee on diagrams in medieval manuscripts, Christine Gardner-Dseagu on photographing Pompeii and Richard Thomson on Henry Lerolle.
◊ ◊ ◊ ◊ ◊
Note (added 31 July 2024) — The posting was updated to include additional content.
New Book | Le Château d’Ormesson
The Château d’Ormesson is about 15 miles southeast of Paris. From Lienart:
Xavier Salmon, Le Château d’Ormesson: Tribulations d’un flacon dans un seau à glace (Paris: Lienart éditions, 2024), 160 pages, ISBN: 978-2359064230, €30.

C’est à une saga que nous invite le château d’Ormesson, celle de ses constructeurs et de la famille qui lui a donné son nom, mais aussi celle de l’évolution du goût.
Dissimulée au bout de son allée de grands arbres, la demeure ne se révèle pas facilement. Il faut l’approcher pour découvrir qu’il s’agit d’une « maison narcisse » qui aime à refléter ses façades sur son miroir d’eau. Il faut la contourner pour comprendre qu’elle fut élevée en deux temps. De brique et pierre, le corps de logis principal et ses deux pavillons posés sur trompe fut peut-être construit à la demande du cardinal René de Birague qui posséda la seigneurie entre 1578 et 1583 et sollicita probablement à cette occasion Baptiste Androuet du Cerceau, le fils du célèbre architecte Jacques Androuet du Cerceau. Avec ses lignes classiques, son toit à la Mansart et son fronton triangulaire, le bâtiment adossé au sud en 1759–1760 pour le premier marquis d’Ormesson, Marie François de Paule, est l’œuvre d’Antoine Matthieu Le Carpentier, l’un des architectes les plus en vogue de son temps. À l’intérieur, l’homme remodela les appartements qui avaient été déjà mis au goût du jour au début du XVIIIe siècle. Tout y est demeuré tel que la famille d’Ormesson, grands serviteurs de l’état, l’avait désiré, entre le caractère enjoué des créations de la Régence et la noble élégance du premier néo-classicisme, mais sans désir d’ostentation afin de répondre parfaitement au caractère des générations qui se sont succédées au sein de la demeure. Denis Diderot voyait en d’Ormesson un « flacon dans un seau à glace ». Il faut aujourd’hui y reconnaître, posé au milieu de son parc à vertugadin et dominant son canal, l’une des plus belles maisons privées préservées aux abords de Paris et qui pour la première fois se livre.
Xavier Salmon est conservateur général du patrimoine. Après avoir été responsable des collections de peintures du XVIIIe siècle et d’arts graphiques au château de Versailles, chef de l’inspection générale des musées de France, directeur du patrimoine et des collections du château de Fontainebleau, il est aujourd’hui chargé du département des Arts graphiques du musée du Louvre.
Exhibition | Horse in Majesty
Opening soon at Versailles:
Horse in Majesty: At the Heart of a Civilisation / Cheval en majesté: Au cœur d’une civilisation
Château de Versailles, 2 July — 3 November 2024
Curated by Laurent Salomé and Hélène Delalex

René-Antoine Houasse, Equestrian Portrait of Louis XIV, ca. 1674, oil on canvas (Château de Versailles, Christophe Fouin).
To coincide with the equestrian events at the Paris 2024 Olympic Games—hosted on the Versailles estate—the Château is holding a major exhibition dedicated to horses and equestrian civilisation in Europe—the first exhibition on this theme to be presented on such a scale. Nearly 300 works will highlight the roles and uses of horses in civil and military society, from the sixteenth to the twentieth century, up to the eve of the First World War, which marked the end of horse-drawn civilisation and the relegation of horses to the realm of leisure. This first exhibition dedicated to horses on such a scale will be divided into thirteen sections, leading visitors on a tour through several emblematic areas of the palace: the Africa Rooms, the King’s State Apartment, the Hall of Mirrors, the War and Peace Rooms, Madame Maintenon’s Apartment, and the Dauphine’s Apartment.
Of Horses and Kings
The first part of the exhibition highlights the links between horses and European sovereigns and emperors. In a gallery of princes’ favourite horses, the exhibition presents Charles XI of Sweden’s collection of horse portraits and more intimate portraits such as those of Queen Victoria’s Arabian horses.
Royal Stables: Palaces for Horses
The beauty and sheer scale of the aristocratic and royal stables built in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries bear witness to the importance attached to horses in representations of power under the Ancien Régime. The Royal Stables at Versailles are also a place for teaching and passing on knowledge and skills. It was at the Royal Arena in Versailles that the art of traditional French horsemanship reached its pinnacle of perfection.
The Horse, King of War
One of the most important aspects of the companionship between man and horse is their shared adventure in war, and often in death. The exhibition explores the motif of the cavalry clash, based on Leonardo da Vinci’s archetype, with horses and riders merging to form a furious and spectacular mass. The exhibition provides an insight into another great slaughter of modern warfare, that of horses. The many corpses littering the foreground of the paintings enable the artists to highlight the violence of the confrontation and its cost.
Festive Horses: The Equestrian Spectacular
Equestrian festivals played a key role in the life of European courts. The exhibition presents some rare examples of these ephemeral festive arts: ceremonial lances, fancy shields and quivers, studies of caparisons, large gouaches of Swedish carousels, drawings, and illuminated manuscripts.
Horses and Luxury: Treasures from the Stables
Following on from the festive arts, the exhibition reveals a set of prodigiously luxurious horse ornaments, crafted in the form of objets d’art. A complete set of equestrian parade armour takes pride of place in the Hercules Room.
Horses and Science
The exhibition also focuses on the relationship between art and science in anatomical studies of horses. The iconic early drawings by Andrea del Verrochio and Leonardo da Vinci are exhibited together here for the first time, in a collaboration between New York’s Metropolitan Museum and the English Royal Collections.
Horses as Models
Horses have always been a favourite subject and source of inspiration for artists. The exhibition features a number of masterpieces of this genre, and examines the unbridled imaginings elicited by the horse’s body in late-nineteenth-century art.
From One Civilisation to Another
The exhibition closes with an evocation of the end of equestrian civilisation, with the advent of the railway and automobile industries transforming a thousand-year-old way of life in a matter of decades.
Curators
Laurent Salomé, Director of the Musée National des Châteaux de Versailles et de Trianon
Hélène Delalex, Heritage Curator at the Musée National des Châteaux de Versailles et de Trianon
Laurent Salomé and Hélène Delalex, eds., Cheval en majesté: Au cœur d’une civilisation (Paris: Lienart éditions, 2024), 504 pages, ISBN: 978-2359064438, €49.
Exhibition | Ramsay and Edinburgh Fashion
Now on view at The Georgian House, from the National Trust for Scotland:
Ramsay and Edinburgh Fashion
The Georgian House, Charlotte Square, Edinburgh, 7 June — 24 November 2024
Bringing together Allan Ramsay’s portraits of women from the National Trust for Scotland’s collection, Ramsay and Edinburgh Fashion explores how vital it was for a painter in the 1700s to be familiar with dress styles, materials, and accessories because fashion was a key signifier of good taste. New research lays out the trades involved in fashion along Edinburgh’s High Street—from the milliners to the mantua-makers—and sets this against the fashion for portraiture in the mid-18th century.

Allan Ramsay, Portrait of Katherine Anne Mure, 1760s, oil on canvas (National Trust for Scotland, Hill of Tarvit Mansion House & Garden).
Katherine Anne Mure was painted by Ramsay in the 1760s wearing the height of French fashion. Katherine lived in Abbeyhill and is pictured wearing a fine laced kerchief over her shoulders, sleeves fitted at the upper arm and trimmed with tiered lace, flowers at her bust, and a stomacher decorated with buttons and ruched strips of expensive blue silk.
Ramsay understood that being well-versed in the language of fashion was one of the keys to social mobility. Being aware of the latest trends was becoming easier for customers in cities like Edinburgh, which was filled with a world of goods and a diverse cross-section of retailers. Fabrics mostly came into the city from textile manufacturing centres like London, Manchester, and Norwich. They were then sold by auction or directly purchased by consumers, merchants, drapers, and milliners.
Foreign textiles were hugely popular. So much so that legislation was introduced throughout the 1700s to protect and encourage domestic production. The encouragement to buy well and buy local fostered a trade in second-hand goods. Wealthier women sold on outdated dresses, in pursuit of the newest trends, while less affluent women searched for the ideal gown that would last and which they could adapt with small alterations.



















leave a comment