New Book | Lauritz de Thurah: Architecture and Worldviews
From Strandberg Publishing:
Peter Thule Kristensen, ed., with contributions by Thomas Lyngby, Else Marie Bukdahl, Martin Søberg, Sanne Maekelberg, Natalie Körner, and Nina Ventzel Riis, Lauritz de Thurah: Architecture and Worldviews in 18th-Century Denmark (Copenhagen: Strandberg Publishing, 2023), 432 pages, ISBN: 978-8794102704, £70.
Lauritz de Thurah (1706–1759) was one of Denmark’s most significant architects of the Baroque period. He created several important buildings—including the Hermitage Hunting Lodge, the Royal Palace in Roskilde, Gammel Holtegaard, and the famous spire of the Church of Our Saviour in Copenhagen—and masterminded conversions and extensions of properties such as Ledreborg, Frederiksberg Castle, Børglum Kloster, and the now demolished summer residence Hirschholm Palace (widely known as the ‘Versailles of the North’). The mainstay of this monograph is Peter Thule Kristensen’s presentation of Thurah’s rich and complex architecture. The other chapters—written by experts Else Marie Bukdahl, Martin Søberg, Thomas Lyngby, Natalie Patricia Körner, Sanne Maekelberg, and Nina Ventzel Riis—describe Thurah’s roles as a leading architectural historian, topographer, grand tour traveller, civil servant, military man, and trailblazer within the new social structure in Denmark under absolute rule. The book also sheds light on the Baroque period in a broader sense, delving into the era’s court culture, garden design, and church architecture. Finally, the afterlife of Thurah’s works is addressed: how do his buildings function in our present day, having been adapted to the needs and users of a new era?
Peter Thule Kristensen is Professor, Head of the Master Programme Spatial Design at the Royal Danish Academy – Institute of Architecture and Design and a Core Scholar at the Centre for Privacy Studies at University of Copenhagen. He is M.Arch. from The Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts, School of Architecture (1994), Ph.D. in architectural history from the same institution (2014), and dr.phil. in art history from Aarhus University (2014).
New Book | The Architecture of Empire
From McGill-Queen’s University Press:
Gauvin Alexander Bailey, The Architecture of Empire: France in India and Southeast Asia, 1664–1962 (McGill-Queen’s University Press, 2022), 488 pages, ISBN: 978-0228011422, $74.
Most monumental buildings of France’s global empire—such as the famous Saigon and Hanoi Opera Houses—were built in South and Southeast Asia. Much of this architecture, and the history of who built it and how, has been overlooked. The Architecture of Empire considers the large-scale public architecture associated with French imperialism in seventeenth- and eighteenth-century India, Siam, and Vietnam, and nineteenth- and twentieth-century Indochina, the largest colony France ever administered in Asia. Offering a sweeping panorama of the buildings of France’s colonial project, this is the first study to encompass the architecture of both the ancien régime and modern empires, from the founding of the French trading company in the seventeenth century to the independence and nationalist movements of the mid-twentieth century.
Gauvin Bailey places particular emphasis on the human factor: the people who commissioned, built, and lived in these buildings. Almost all of these architects, both Europeans and non-Europeans, have remained unknown beyond—at best—their surnames. Through extensive archival research, this book reconstructs their lives, providing vital background for the buildings themselves. Much more than in the French empire of the Western Hemisphere, the buildings in this book adapt to indigenous styles, regardless of whether they were designed and built by European or non-European architects. The Architecture of Empire provides a unique, comprehensive study of structures that rank among the most fascinating examples of intercultural exchange in the history of global empires.
Gauvin Alexander Bailey is professor and Alfred and Isabel Bader Chair in Southern Baroque Art at Queen’s University and the author of Architecture and Urbanism in the French Atlantic Empire.
c o n t e n t s
Acknowledgments
1 Introduction: Architecture, Empire, and Hubris
2 Origins: Fort Dauphin, Surat, Pondicherry, ca 1672
3 DipLomacy: Ayutthaya, ca 1688
4 Grandeur: Pondicherry, ca 1752
5 Interregnum: Diên Khánh, ca 1793
6 Semblance: Saigon and Hanoi, ca 1900
7 Appropriation: Phnom Penh, ca 1917
8 Association: Saigon and Hanoi, ca 1925
9 Hybridity: India and Southeast Asia, 1738–1962
Notes
Bibliography
Index
New Book | Book Parts
This collection of essays from Oxford University Press was first published in 2019; it’s just out in paperback.
Dennis Duncan and Adam Smyth, eds., Book Parts (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2023), 352 pages, ISBN: 978-0198885443 (paperback), $25.
What would an anatomy of the book look like? There is the main text, of course, the file that the author proudly submits to their publisher. But around this, hemming it in on the page or enclosing it at the front and back of the book, there are dozens of other texts—page numbers and running heads, copyright statements and errata lists—each possessed of particular conventions, each with their own lively histories. To consider these paratexts—recalling them from the margins, letting them take centre stage—is to be reminded that no book is the sole work of the author whose name appears on the cover; rather, every book is the sum of a series of collaborations. It is to be reminded, also, that not everything is intended for us, the readers. There are sections that are solely directed at others—binders, librarians, lawyers parts of the book that, if they are working well, are working discreetly, like a theatrical prompt, whispering out of the audience’s ear-shot
Book Parts is a bold and imaginative intervention in the fast growing field of book history: it pulls the book apart. Over twenty-two chapters, Book Parts tells the story of the components of the book: from title pages to endleaves; from dust jackets to indexes—and just about everything in between. Book Parts covers a broad historical range that runs from the pre-print era to the digital, bringing together the expertise of some of the most exciting scholars working on book history today in order to shine a new light on these elements hiding in plain sight in the books we all read.
Dennis Duncan is writer, translator, and lecturer in English at University College, London, and was formerly a British Academy Postdoctoral Fellow at the Bodleian Library, Oxford, then Munby Fellow in Bibliography at Cambridge. His research interests include book history, translation, and avant-garde literature, particularly French groups like the Oulipo and the Collège de ‘Pataphysique. His most recent books include Index, A History of the (Penguin, 2021) and The Oulipo and Modern Thought (Oxford University Press, 2019).
Adam Smyth is Professor of English Literature and the History of the Book at Balliol College, Oxford. His most recent books include Material Texts in Early Modern England (Cambridge University Press, 2018), Autobiography in Early Modern England (Cambridge University Press, 2010), A History of English Autobiography (edited, Cambridge University Press, 2016), and Book Destruction from the Medieval to the Contemporary (edited with Gill Partington, Palgrave, 2014). He is the co-editor of Routledge’s book series Material Readings in Early Modern Culture. He also enjoys discussing his work beyond the academy: he writes regularly for the London Review of Books and has appeared on TV and radio in the UK and abroad. Smyth is the co-host of the literary discussion podcast and radio show, Litbits.
c o n t e n t s
List of Figures
List of Plates
Contributors
A Note on the Type
1 Introductions — Adam Smyth and Dennis Duncan
2 Dust-jackets — Gill Partington
3 Frontispieces — Luisa Calè
4 Title Pages — Whitney Trettien
5 Imprints, Imprimaturs, and Copyright Pages — Shef Rogers
6 Tables of Contents — Joseph Howley
7 Addresses to the Reader — Meaghan J. Brown
8 Acknowledgements and Dedications — Helen Smith
9 Printer’s Ornaments and Flowers — Hazel Wilkinson
10 Character Lists — Tamara Atkin
11 Page Numbers, Signatures, and Catchwords — Daniel Sawyer
12 Chapter Heads — Nicholas Dames
13 Epigraphs — Rachel Sagner Buurma
14 Stage Directions — Tiffany Stern
15 Running Titles — Claire M. L. Bourne
16 Woodcuts — Alexandra Franklin
17 Engravings — Sean Roberts
18 Footnotes — Jenny Davidson
19 Errata Lists — Adam Smyth
20 Indexes — Dennis Duncan
21 Endleaves — Sidney Berger
22 Blurbs — Abigail Williams
Select Bibliography
Index
New Book | Embroidering the Landscape
Coming this fall from Lund Humphries:
Andrea Pappas, Embroidering the Landscape: Women, Art, and the Environment in British North America, 1740–1770 (London: Lund Humphries, 2023), 192 pages, ISBN: 978-1848226241, £50 / $90.
Linking histories of women, relationships to the natural environment, material culture and art, Andrea Pappas presents a new, multi-dimensional view of eighteenth-century American culture from a unique perspective. This book investigates how and why women pictured the landscape in their needlework. It explores the ways their embroidered landscapes address the tumultuous environmental history of the period; how their depictions of nature differ from those made by men; and what women’s choices of motifs can tell us about their lives and their relationships to nature. Embroidering the Landscape situates these pastoral and georgic needleworks (c. 1740–1775) at the intersection of environmental and social histories, interpreting them through ecocritical and social lenses. Pappas’ investigation draws out connections between women’s depicted landscapes and environmental and cultural history at a time when nature itself was a charged arena for changes in agriculture, husbandry, gardening, and the emerging discourses of botany and natural history. Her insights change our understanding of the relationship between culture and the environment in this period and raise new questions about the unrecognized extent of women’s engagement with nature and natural science.
Andrea Pappas is Associate Professor at Santa Clara University. She has published on topics ranging from the Renaissance to the present and is particularly interested in the work of people on the margins or in overlooked artifacts.
c o n t e n t s
Introduction: Surveying the Field
1 The Eye of the Needle
2 Roots and Terroir
3 Greener Pastures
4 Flock, Fish, and Fowl
5 Women’s Estate
6 Women and ‘Experiential Botany’
Conclusion: Women’s Harvest
Notes
Bibliography
Illustration Credits
Index
New Book | Landscape Design & Revolution in Ireland and the U.S.
Distributed by Yale UP:
Finola O’Kane, Landscape Design & Revolution in Ireland and the United States, 1688–1815 (London: Paul Mellon Centre for Studies in British Art, 2023), 272 pages, ISBN: 978-1913107383, £45 / $65.
Explores how revolutionary ideas were translated into landscape design, encompassing liberty, equality, improvement and colonialism.
Spanning the designed landscapes of England’s Glorious Revolution of 1688, the American Revolution of 1776, and the Irish rebellion of 1798, with some detours into revolutionary France, this book traces a comparative history of property structures and landscape design across the eighteenth-century Atlantic world and evolving concepts of plantation and improvement within imperial ideology. Revolutionaries such as Jean-Jacques Rousseau, George Washington, Arthur Young, Lord Edward FitzGerald, and Pierce Butler constructed houses, farms, and landscape gardens—many of which have since been forgotten or selectively overlooked. How did the new republics and revolutionaries, having overthrown social hierarchies, translate their principles into spatial form? As the eighteenth-century ideology of improvement was applied to a variety of transatlantic and enslaved environments, new landscape designs were created—stretching from the suburbs of Dublin to the sea islands of the state of Georgia. Yet these revolutionary ideas of equality and freedom often contradicted reality, particularly where the traditional design of the great landed estate—the building block of aristocratic power throughout Europe—intersected with that of the farm and the plantation.
Finola O’Kane is a landscape historian, architect, and professor at the School of Architecture, Planning and Environmental Policy, University College Dublin.
New Book | Drawn from Nature: The Flowering of Irish Botanical Art
The related exhibition was on view in Dublin at the National Gallery of Ireland in 2020. Forthcoming from ACC:
Patricia Butler, Drawn from Nature: The Flowering of Irish Botanical Art (Woodbridge: ACC Art Books, 2023), 256 pages, ISBN: 978-1788842365, £35 / $40.

For centuries, artists of all disciplines have expressed delight in nature through the highly skilled and captivating medium of botanical art. The distinguished contributions of Irish botanical artists include records of plants from 17th-century Ireland, early illustrated floras, and botanical art found in the field of design. Drawn from Nature: The Flowering of Irish Botanical Art also covers the importance of botanical art to the Ordnance Survey of Ireland during the 19th century, as well as the vital plant portraits produced by Irish women. These portraits assisted generations of botanists in understanding and describing the natural world but received scant recognition. Published for the first time, these outstanding examples of Irish botanical art, from both public and private collections, demonstrate a shared desire by botanical artists to observe, illuminate, and record Ireland’s unique flora. This book finally affords them the recognition they deserve.
Patricia Butler is an art historian and gardener. The author of Irish Botanical Illustrators & Flower Painters (2000), she curated the exhibition Drawn from Nature: Irish Botanical Art, on view in Dublin at the National Gallery of Ireland in 2020. She owns the historic garden at Dower House, Rossanagh, Ashford, Co Wicklow.
New Book | A Curious Herbal
From Abbeville Press (Lauren Moya Ford’s review of the book can be found at HyperAllergic). . . .
Marta McDowell and Janet Stiles Tyson, eds., A Curious Herbal: Elizabeth Blackwell’s Pioneering Masterpiece of Botanical Art (New York: Abbeville Press, 2023), 576 pages, ISBN: 978-0789214539, £60 / $75.
A complete edition of the first herbal published by a woman artist—which has a remarkable backstory.
In the 1730s, Elizabeth Blackwell (1699–c. 1758) found herself penniless, with her ne’er-do-well husband confined to a London debtor’s prison. A talented artist, she came up with a unique and ambitious moneymaking scheme: the publication of a new illustrated guide to medicinal plants, including many New World species not depicted in earlier books. Blackwell’s Curious Herbal, published between 1737 and 1739, was hailed for its usefulness to doctors and apothecaries and met with considerable financial success. This magnificent volume—the first modern edition of Blackwell’s herbal—reproduces all five hundred of her exquisite plates. Blackwell not only made the drawings, but prepared the copper plates and personally hand-colored the prints. Her handwritten descriptions of the plants, which she creatively adapted (with permission) from Joseph Miller’s Botanicum Officinale, retain considerable interest. This book features a previously unknown preface by Blackwell, in which she reveals her passion for art and nature, and her vision for the herbal. Two introductory texts contextualize Blackwell’s achievement: the noted garden writer Marta McDowell explores the history of herbals as a genre and the state of botanical knowledge in Blackwell’s time, and the historian Janet Stiles Tyson relates the artist’s rather extraordinary biography.
Marta McDowell is a gardener, lecturer, and horticultural writer. Her books include All the Presidents’ Gardens (2016) and Beatrix Potter’s Gardening Life (2013), winner of the Gold Award from the Garden Writers Association.
Janet Stiles Tyson, an independent scholar, wrote her doctoral dissertation on Elizabeth Blackwell’s Curious Herbal.
New Book | The Turkish Boudoir of Marie-Antoinette and Joséphine
From Éditions d’art Monelle Hayot:
Vincent Cochet and Alexia Lebeurre, The Turkish Boudoir of Marie-Antoinette and Joséphine at Fontainebleau / Le Boudoir Turc de Marie-Antoinette et Joséphine à Fontainebleau (Saint-Rémy-en-l’Eau: Éditions d’art Monelle Hayot, 2023), 208 pages, ISBN: 979-1096561384 (English) / ISBN: 979-1096561407 (French), €43.
Within ten years, Marie-Antoinette ordered the achievement of two exquisite rooms in Fontainebleau: the Turkish Boudoir (1777) and the Silver Boudoir (1786). Two peaceful refuges allowing her to escape the laws of «Étiquette». When Joséphine became Empress, the craze for turqueries and chinoiseries, had not faded. Both a lover of Marie-Antoinette and of her style, she made hers the Turkish Boudoir emptied at the Revolution. She enhanced the luxury of the oriental atmosphere adding sumptuous and highly creative pieces of furniture by the finest artists of her time. Mahogany and gilt bronzes accompanied masterpieces of upholstery and curtains made of brocade, silk and gold. After a painstaking seven-year restoration completed in 2015, the graceful carved, painted, and gilded panelings of Marie Antoinette’s boudoir are once again the setting for Joséphine’s luxurious furniture in an environment of rewoven textiles.
Heritage curator Vincent Cochet devoted seven years to the restoration of the Turkish Boudoir. Alexia Lebeurre is Associate Professor in the History of Art Department at the Université Bordeaux Montaigne.
Exhibition | Seduction and Power

Now on view at Marly:
Séduction et Pouvoir: L’art de s’apprêter à la Cour
Musée du Domaine royal de Marly, 14 April — 27 August 2023
Curated by Anne Camilli and Karen Chastagnol
Une exposition consacrée à l’art du paraître aux 17e et 18e siècles.
Se vêtir et accessoiriser sa tenue révèle les usages sociaux et politiques des élites. Si l’usage de la parure et l’envie d’embellir le corps sont présents dans toutes les sociétés et à toutes les époques, il s’accompagne sous Louis XIV d’une véritable stratégie d’affirmation du pouvoir motivée par la centralisation politique. Le règne du Roi-Soleil se caractérise par un souci de l’apparence et de la représentation. L’accessoire, tout comme le vêtement, contribue à la nécessité de paraitre et de tenir son rang.
Qu’on les appelle ornements ou encore parures, les accessoires du vêtement, de la coiffure et de la beauté deviennent les outils d’une communication non verbale entre les individus et le lieu d’un investissement symbolique. Ces ornements et ces parures reflètent les courants de la mode mais témoignent également des valeurs et des préférences de la société française de l’époque.
Chaque accessoire, chaque geste, chaque attitude répond à des normes, à des codes qui ne cessent d’évoluer attestant ainsi des changements de modes et de mœurs. Cette construction de l’apparence requiert de connaître les usages et les règles et de s’y conformer pour bénéficier de la faveur royale et attester de son identité sociale.
Aussi, cette culture du paraître s’accompagne d’une parfaite maîtrise de soi et des expressions du visage : fards, poudres, mouches et parfums concourent à une monotonie d’apparence. L’impératif de séduction s’inscrit dans un double mouvement : un mimétisme envers le roi et le pouvoir d’une part, et la nécessité de s’en affranchir pour se faire remarquer et mieux révéler son rang d’autre part. Le corps se pare alors de divers artifices : perruques, maquillage, bijoux, parfums, dentelles, et objets de poche et de galanterie. Les costumes sont complétés par différents atours : broderies, dentelles, rubans qui rivalisent de sophistication et de raffinement.
Objets luxueux, réalisés par des métiers d’art, ces accessoires subliment le vêtement, deviennent des objets de distinction et s’accompagnent pour certains d’une gestuelle propre qui révèle un langage codifié et marquent le corps modifiant la posture, le déplacement, la prestance du courtisan. Qu’elles soient rhétoriques ou esthétiques, ces armes de séduction servent l’esprit d’une société élitiste où se mêlent des enjeux amoureux, politiques et religieux.
L’exposition vous emmène à la découverte de ces objets qui participent à ce jeu de la séduction et du pouvoir à la cour. Éléments de la mise en scène du théâtre de la cour, les accessoires de mode, les produits de beauté et l’art du parfum révèlent les attentes des femmes et des hommes nobles tout au long des XVIIe et XVIIIe siècles. Le visiteur découvre les œuvres dans un parcours qui évoque de la tête au pied les différents objets auquel recourt le courtisan et reflète les évolutions de ces accessoires au cours des règnes successifs de Louis XIV, Louis XV et Louis XVI, période d’activité du château de Marly, instrument de la politique royale.
Anne Camilli and Karen Chastagnol, eds., with additional contributions by Alice Camus, Georgina Letourmy-Bordier, Grégory Maugain, and Corinne Thépaut-Cabasset, Séduction & Pouvoir: L’art de s’apprêter à la Cour (Fine éditions d’art, 2023), 104 pages, ISBN: 978-2382031179, €25.
Entre les règnes de Louis XIV et de Louis XVI, Versailles puis Paris se disputent le titre de capitale de la mode. Entre désir de séduction, affirmation du pouvoir et désir de signifier un statut social, les accessoires de mode et de beauté viennent appuyer sous l’Ancien Régime une nouvelle mise en scène de soi. Chaque parure, chaque geste, chaque attitude répond à des codes qui ne cessent d’évoluer et accompagnent ainsi les modes et les mœurs. Le corps est paré de divers artifices qui rivalisent d’audace et de distinction. Quels rôles jouent ces ornements dans le contexte de la cour ? L’exposition du Musée du Domaine royal de Marly retrace les usages de ces objets, de la tête aux pieds : coiffes, perruques, maquillage, parfums, ornements du vêtement, bijoux, objets de galanterie, chaussures.
s o m m a i r e
• Introduction — Être et paraître : Accessoires de mode, parures & ornements — Karen Chastagnol
• Boucles, dentelles, bonnets et édifices de la mode capillaire — Corinne Thépaut-Cabasset
• Mouche et rouge : Les attributs de la mode et de la beauté — Corinne Thépaut-Cabasset
• L’apparat olfactif du courtisan — Alice Camus
• Orner le vêtement et ses accessoires à la cour : Dentelles, broderies et boutons — Géraldine Bidault
• Le bijou et la montre pour briller à la cour — Anne Camilli et Grégory Maugain
• La galanterie de poche — Anne Camilli et Georgina Letourmy-Bordier
• Le soulier et ses parures — Anne Camilli
Annexes
Notices des œuvres exposées
Sources & bibliographie
Crédits photographiques
New Book | Jane Austen’s Wardrobe
From Yale UP:
Hilary Davidson, Jane Austen’s Wardrobe (New Haven: Yale University Press, 2023), 240 Pages, ISBN: 978-0300263602, $35.
What did Jane Austen wear? Acclaimed dress historian and Austen expert Hilary Davidson reveals, for the first time, the wardrobe of one of the world’s most celebrated authors. Despite her acknowledged brilliance on the page, Jane Austen has all too often been accused of dowdiness in her appearance. Drawing on Austen’s 161 known letters, as well as her own surviving garments and accessories, this book assembles examples of the variety of clothes she would have possessed—from gowns and coats to shoes and undergarments—to tell a very different story. The Jane Austen Hilary Davidson discovers is alert to fashion trends but thrifty and eager to reuse and repurpose clothing. Her renowned irony and wit peppers her letters, describing clothes, shopping, and taste. Jane Austen’s Wardrobe offers the rare pleasure of a glimpse inside the closet of a stylish dresser and perpetually fascinating writer.
Hilary Davidson is associate professor and chair of MA Fashion and Textile Studies at the Fashion Institute of Technology, New York. She has curated, lectured, broadcast, and published extensively in her field and is author of Dress in the Age of Jane Austen: Regency Fashion.



















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