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 From H-ArtHist:

‘Num’rous Uses, Motions, Charms, and Arts’: Fans as Images, Accessories, and Instruments of Gesture in the 17th and 18th Centuries
Der Faecher als Bild, Accessoire und gestisches Instrument im 17. und 18. Jahrhundert
Kunsthistorisches Institut, Universität Zürich, 29 November — 1 December 2017

Organized by Danijela Bucher, Fabienne Ruppen, and Miriam Volmert

This interdisciplinary conference discusses the cultural role of European folding fans in art, fashion, and material culture in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. In eighteenth-century Europe, fans became important fashion accessories across social classes and were almost omnipresent in social interaction. Painted and printed fans presented a wide variety of social knowledge through fast and fleeting pictures, in this way conveying personal statements of those who carried them. Early modern fan depictions were often inspired by or based on Renaissance and contemporary paintings. In the course of the eighteenth century, fan leaves displayed an increasing variety of cultural themes, thereby also functioning as souvenirs as well as conveyors of political and social messages.

The conference aims to take a closer look at the pictorial and intermedial interplay of ornamental patterns, figurative elements, and artistic subject matters against the background of European fan manufacture, artistic networks and international trade. Furthermore, it seeks to closer examine fans as gender-specific instruments of gesture and communication. The conference is funded by Schweizerischer Nationalfonds zur Förderung der wissenschaftlichen Forschung (SNF), Graduate Campus der Universität Zürich, and UZH Alumni. Please direct any questions to miriam.volmert@khist.uzh.ch.

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20.00  Welcome and introduction

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9.15  Welcome (Bettina Gockel) and introduction (Danijela Bucher and Miriam Volmert)

9.30  I | Fans as Accessories and Instruments of Gesture
Moderation: Danijela Bucher and Miriam Volmert
• Pascale Cugy, ‘La Dame paroist badiner avec son Eventail qu’elle porte au coin de sa bouche’: Les éventails dans la gravure de mode féminine sous Louis XIV
• Allison Goudie, The 18th-Century Mask Fan: More than the Sum of its Parts
• Pierre-Henri Biger, Faux et vrais langages de l’éventail

11.00  Coffee

11.30  II | History Painting on Folding Fans in the late 17th and in the 18th Centuries
Moderation: Fabienne Ruppen
• Christl Kammerl-Baum, Bilder-Sprache auf Fächern – eine ikonographische und ikonologische Bedeutungsanalyse anhand eines Fallbeispiels
• Georgina Letourmy-Bordier, De Coriolan à la rosière de Salency, le héros et l’incarnation de la vertu au XVIIIe siècle

12.30  Lunch

14.00  III | Fans as Media of Memory and Souvenirs in the 18th Century
Moderation: Miriam Volmert
• Mary Kitson, ‘Thanks for the Memory’: Typical Imagery of the Grand Tour Fan Leaf
• Heiner Krellig, Souvenir der Grand Tour: Ein Fächer als Erinnerung an Venedig
• Adelheid Müller, Reputation in Falten: Elisa von der Reckes Autographenfächer, ein Zeugnis selbstvergewissernder Positionierung

15.30  Coffee

16.00  IV | Fans as Political Media in 18th-Century France
Moderation: Danijela Bucher
• Aurore Chéry, La représentation de la famille royale de France sur les éventails du XVIIIe siècle
• Rolf Reichardt, Bild-Kompositionen revolutionärer Faltfächer in Frankreich, 1789–94

17.00  Discussion

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9.00  Introduction

9.15  V | Artistic Networks, Paths of Reception, and Production Sites
Moderation: Patrizia Munforte
• Kirsty Hassard, Sarah Ashton and Her Contemporaries: Female Fan Makers and Publishers in 18th-Century London
• Geneviève Dutoit, Les éventails décorés d’après les œuvres d’Angelica Kauffmann à la fin du XVIIIème et du début du XIXème siècle

10.15  Coffee

10.45  VI | Fans in the Context of Historical Material and Textile Cultures
Moderation: Katharina Haack
• Suet May Lam, From Ephemeral to Eternal: Unfolding Early Modern ‘Fashion’ for Asia
• Isa Fleischmann-Heck, Textile Dekore auf Fächerblättern des 18. Jahrhunderts – Formen, Erscheinung, Wirkung

11.45  End of Public Conference Program

Afternoon Workshop (Limited to Conference Speakers) at the Collection Centre of the Swiss National Museum, Affoltern am Albis

14.30  Round Table | Fans in Museum Collections
Markus Leuthard, Welcome
• Mathilde Semal, L’éventail du XVIIIe siècle, véritable attribut social ? La richesse des montures de la collection Preciosa (Musée du Cinquantenaire, Bruxelles)
• Annette Kniep/Maike Piecuch, Neulagerung und Konservierung der Fächer im Bernischen Historischen Museum – Konzept und Umsetzung
• Yolaine Voltz, Principes et compromis de la restauration des éventails : étude de cas particuliers

15.30  Guided Tour
Conservation and Restoration of Fans in the Swiss National Museum with Nikkibarla Calonde, Véronique Mathieu, and Isabel Keller