Enfilade

Exhibition | History in the Making

Posted in exhibitions by Editor on October 27, 2023

‘Bedford Gift Service’ tureen and stand, Sèvres, decoration by Jean-Pierre Ledoux, 1761–63
(Woburn Abbey Collection)

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From the press release (via Art Daily) for the exhibition at Compton Verney:

History in the Making: Stories of Materials and Makers, 2000BC to Now
Compton Verney Art Gallery and Park, Warwickshire, 21 October 2023 — 11 February 2024

Curated by Oli McCall and Hannah Obee

History in the Making: Stories of Materials and Makers presents the stories of the people and processes behind outstanding examples of historic and contemporary craft by bringing together a treasure-trove of objects in a unique exploration and celebration of materials and making. Installed in both suites of temporary exhibition galleries at Compton Verney, the exhibition presents historic craft masterpieces from Woburn Abbey and Compton Verney alongside contemporary creations by some of the most exciting makers working today, many of which are being loaned for the first time by the Crafts Council, the UK’s national charity for craft.

Works on display include ancient Chinese ceramics from Compton Verney’s internationally renowned Chinese collection, 18th-century Indian bed textiles from Woburn Abbey, painted silks by award-winning artist and designer Christian Ovonlen, and glazed stoneware vessels by rising star ceramic artist Shawanda Corbett. By displaying the historic in dialogue with the new, the exhibition uncovers the skilful craft processes, technical innovations, and material properties of decorative objects across the ages, while also highlighting the environmental and ethical considerations around the use of natural materials. Each gallery focuses on a different material group—textile, organic, metal, stone, clay, and wood—providing a framework within which contemporary issues such as globalisation and colonial economies, social class and the importance of craft traditions in diverse cultures will be explored.

A highlight of History in the Making is the chance to see one of Woburn Abbey’s newly conserved Mortlake Tapestries. Dating from the 1660s, these huge wall hangings have been painstakingly conserved over a period of five years. Inspired by Raphael’s cartoon for The Miraculous Draught of Fishes (ca. 1515–16, on loan to the V&A from His Majesty The King), originally commissioned by Pope Leo X for the Sistine Chapel, the tapestry shows two boats on the waters of lake Galilee; on the left Christ is seated, with the Apostles Peter and Andrew in astonishment before him, their boat full of miraculous fish. The Mortlake manufactory was established in 1619 in the village of Mortlake, west of London. Under royal patronage, the workshop was able to rival continental centres such as Brussels and Paris for high-quality textiles. The tapestry from Woburn Abbey is being displayed in a gallery with pieces by textile artist and ceramicist Matt Smith, who has reworked vintage tapestries by unpicking and re-stitching elements—often faces—to illustrate how historical narratives are never objective accounts of truth, alluding to the marginalisation of queer people in society. His work often reshapes objects from their original uses to highlight marginalised points of view and hidden stories.

The exhibition includes examples of the Sèvres dinner service given by Louis XV of France to the Duke and Duchess of Bedford in 1763. The Sèvres ceramics have provided an intriguing opportunity for the exhibition’s co-curator Hannah Obee to delve into the iconic French manufacturer’s archives. She notes that “in the 18th century, luxury porcelain was about enhancing the prestige and wealth of nations. The individuals who made it were not part of the narrative, unlike today. However, the Sèvres archives provide a rich resource of information; so, we can now put names and sometimes faces to the objects they created. This is a unique feature of the show at Compton Verney.”

The exhibition also contains a set of bed textiles made in the 1750s in Gujarat, India. “Even now their colours are amazing and so vibrant,” observes Compton Verney senior curator Oli McCall. “The Bedford family had an agent in India who reported back to them about the people making them, who were all women. From these letters we gain valuable insights into the textile trade in the 18th century, anticipating modern globalisation.”

History in the Making also includes objects, once prized, but now seen as problematic, made from natural materials such as coral, tortoiseshell, and ivory. McCall, Obee, and their colleagues decided to include several of these pieces to reflect how makers once saw artistic and creative potential, without questioning the environmental damage that would result from the huge demand for such items. To demonstrate this, History in the Making showcases the work of contemporary makers who are sourcing sustainable materials for their work.

The display of historic silverware such as 18th-century candlesticks and tableware, acts as a reminder of the importance of human migration in the dissemination of craft expertise and techniques and the challenges faced by new arrivals. Huguenot silversmiths, for example, were members of the French Protestant faith who faced persecution in their homeland with over 50,000 Huguenots coming to Britain through the 16th to 18th-centuries. Their work and that of the people who made the Mortlake Tapestries, worked in the Sèvres factory, and produced the Indian bed textiles are just a handful of examples of how Britain connected with the wider world. The exhibition demonstrates and reminds us of this, whilst shining a spotlight on the things that people created for themselves as part of everyday life. Adi Toch’s 2020 print Precious Disposables, on loan from the Crafts Council, depicts a pair of the maker’s latex gloves covered in golden-hued brass dust. Made during the Coronavirus pandemic, the work invites us to think about how what is considered valuable shifts depending on social, political, and environmental concerns.

In the final room, pieces by some of the most exciting young makers working at the forefront of scientific and material innovation are displayed, highlighting the environmental responsibility that has become a focus of contemporary craft practices proposing more planet-friendly materials and methods. Diana Scherer uses plant roots to create ‘living fabrics’, which she fashions into wall hangings and framed works of art. Nicky James, meanwhile, makes garments in wool, but has found a way to make them more resilient by mimicking strong structures found in nature, such as the giant squid beak. Other makers are using cutting-edge innovation to work with ‘leather’ made from mushrooms, and even using silk worm cocoons to create furniture.

Geraldine Collinge, Director of Compton Verney, states: “We are delighted to be able to collaborate with Woburn Abbey and the Crafts Council on this ambitious exhibition, which will give visitors a unique opportunity to explore outstanding examples of craft by many of the leading makers past and present and reflect on the universal importance of materials and making. This exhibition reflects the bringing together of the historic and contemporary to tell stories, which is something we aim to do across our creative programme at Compton Verney. Throughout the winter and into the start of 2024 we will be providing a host of hands-on craft workshops and activities where visitors can get creative and pick up new skills.”

Colloquium | Léopold Robert and Aurèle Robert

Posted in conferences (to attend), exhibitions by Editor on October 27, 2023

From the conference programme:

Frères d’art: Léopold et Aurèle Robert
Neuchâtel / La Chaux-de-Fonds, 9–10 November 2023

Dans le cadre de l’exposition Léopold et Aurèle Robert présentée conjointement au Musée des beaux-arts de La Chaux-de-Fonds et au Musée d’art et d’histoire de Neuchâtel du 14 mai au 12 novembre 2023, l’Institut d’histoire de l’art et de muséologie de l’Université de Neuchâtel souhaite encourager la réflexion et l’échange d’idées à propos de ces deux figures artistiques à l’occasion d’un colloque international. Celui-ci se tiendra en présentiel le jeudi 9 novembre 2023 au Musée d’art et d’histoire de Neuchâtel, et le vendredi 10 novembre 2023 au Musée des beaux-arts de La Chaux-de-Fonds.

j e u d i ,  9  n o v e m b r e  2 0 2 3

10.00  Accueil et café

10.30  La fabrique de l’œuvre: Léopold Robert au travail
• Léopold Robert au prisme de la conservation-restauration: État des lieux, nouvelles investigations et perspectives — Léa Gentil (Musée des beaux-arts de La Chaux-de-Fonds)
• La notion d’« œuvres de jeunesse » touchant Léopold Robert: Un réexamen des premières orientations de l’artiste — Cecilia Hurley (École du Louvre / Université de Neuchâtel)
• Les Brigands de Robert, ou l’art d’accommoder les restes de l’histoire de l’art — Pascal Griener (Université de Cambridge / École du Louvre)

12.30  Pause déjeuner

14.00  La fabrique de l’œuvre: Aurèle Robert au travail
• Un sens aigu de l’observation: Corpus d’études d’après nature d’Aurèle Robert conservé au Musée des beaux-arts du Locle — Anaëlle Hirschi (Chargée de projet de recherche en collaboration avec le Musée des beaux-arts du Locle)
• Les hors-champs de l’image: L’Atelier de Léopold Robert à Rome en 1829 par Aurèle Robert — Lucie Girardin Cestone (Musée d’art et d’histoire de Neuchâtel)

15.30  Pause café

16.00  Conférence
• Quand le folklore devient désirable: La mise en scène de la vie populaire entre représentation, collection et recherche — Federica Tamarozzi (Musée d’ethnographie de Genève)

v e n d r e d i ,  1 0  n o v e m b r e  2 0 2 3

10.00  Accueil et café

10.30  Les stratégies de Léopold Robert, ou comment prendre sa place sur la scène artistique
• Une histoire de regards — Walter Tschopp (Fondation Ateliers d’Artistes)
• Léopold Robert et l’apparition de la grande scène de genre italienne en France — Laurent Langer (Musée d’art de Pully)
• Petit genre et grand format: Quelle grandeur pour représenter le peuple ? — Olivier Bonfait (Université de Bourgogne Franche-Comté, LIR3S)

12.30  Pause déjeuner

14.00  Regards contemporains sur Léopold Robert
• Léopold Robert et les écrivains de son temps (suite) — Alain Corbellari (Universités de Lausanne et de Neuchâtel)
• The legacy of Léopold Robert in 19th-century cosmopolitan Rome — Giovanna Capitelli (Università degli Studi Roma Tre)

15.30  Pause café

16.00  Conférence
• Et in Italia ego: Le voyage des peintres femmes à Rome et en Italie au XIXe siècle — Martine Lacas (Auteure, chercheuse et commissaire d’exposition indépendante)

The Burlington Magazine, October 2023

Posted in books, catalogues, exhibitions, journal articles, reviews by Editor on October 27, 2023

Anne-Louis Girodet de Roussy-Trioson, Coriolanus Taking Leave of His Family, 1786, oil on canvas, 114 × 146 cm
(National Gallery of Art, Washington)

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The eighteenth century in the October issue of The Burlington:

The Burlington Magazine 165 (October 2023)

a r t i c l e

• Aaron Wile, “Girodet’s Coriolanus Taking Leave of His Family Rediscovered,” pp. 1094–1105.
In 2019 Girodet’s lost entry for the 1786 Grand prix de peinture came to light and was acquired by the National Gallery of Art, Washington. The painting, which depicts a rarely represented incident from the story of Coriolanus—a subject that may have had contemporary political relevance—was not awarded the prize, probably because Girodet was regarded as being too close to Jacques-Louis David, a relationship to which the work may allude.

s h o r t e r  n o t i c e

• Antoinette Friedenthal, “Image of a Connoisseur: An Unknown Portrait of Pierre Jean Mariette,” pp. 1106–10.
Among the unpublished miniatures in the Victoria & Albert Museum, London (V&A), is an eighteenth-century bust-length portrait of a middle-aged gentleman. A basic unillustrated inventory sheet for this work appeared in 2020 on the museum’s website. It stated that the portrait represents Pierre Jean Mariette (1694–1774) but gave no reasons for this identification and did not provide any information on the object’s provenance. It will be argued here that a combination of visual and documentary evidence confirms the identification.

r e v i e w s

• Mark Bill, Review of the exhibition Reframing Reynolds: A Celebration (The Box, Plymouth, 2023), pp. 1124–27.

• Stephen Lloyd, Review of the refurbished Medieval, Renaissance, and Baroque galleries at the Walker Art Gallery, Liverpool, pp. 1130–33.

• Beth McKillop, Review of the exhibition China’s Hidden Century (The British Museum, London, 2023), pp. 1136–38.

• Satish Padiyar, Review of the exhibition Sade: Freedom or Evil (CCCB, Barcelona, 2023), pp. 1143–46.

• Malcolm McNeill, Review of Anne Farrer and Kevin McLoughlin, eds., Handbook of the Colour Print in China, 1600–1800 (Brill, 2022), pp. 1150–52.

• Edward Cooke, Review of Elisa Ambrosio, Francine Giese, Alina Martimyanova, and Hans Bjarne Thomsen, eds., China and the West: Reconsidering Chinese Reverse Glass Painting (De Gruyter, 2022), pp. 1152–53.

• David Ekserdjian, Review of the catalogue, Denise Allen, Linda Borsch, James David Draper, Jeffrey Fraiman, and Richard Stone, eds., Italian Renaissance and Baroque Bronzes in the Metropolitan Museum of Art (The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2022), pp. 1156–58. The book is available as a free PDF The Met’s website.

• Rowan Watson, Review of Christopher de Hamel, The Posthumous Papers of the Manuscripts Club (Allen Lane, 2022), pp. 1160–62.

• Stefan Albl, Review of Francesco Lofano, Un pittore conteso nella Napoli del Settecento: L’epistolario e gli affari di Francesco de Mura (Istituto Italiano Studi Filosofici, 2022), pp. 1163–64.

 

New Book | David Rittenhouse

Posted in books by Editor on October 26, 2023

Distributed by Yale University Press:

Donald Fennimore and Frank Hohmann, David Rittenhouse: Philosopher-Mechanick of Colonial Philadelphia and His Famous Clocks (Winterthur, Delaware: Winterthur Museum, Garden & Library, 2023), 272 pages, ISBN: ‎ 978-0300272956, $75.

A lush and in-depth celebration of the clocks of David Rittenhouse, one of eighteenth-century America’s greatest scientists and engineers.

David Rittenhouse: Philosopher-Mechanick of Colonial Philadelphia and His Famous Clocks brings a completely new focus on the life and works of the American astronomer, mathematician, surveyor, and inventor David Rittenhouse (1732–1796). A brilliant autodidact who would become the first director of the United States Mint, Rittenhouse was a pivotal figure of the cultural scene in Colonial Philadelphia. This publication expands the body of knowledge surrounding Rittenhouse and his brother Benjamin, as well as the era in which they lived. His masterful clocks are the principal subject matter, but the book also addresses Rittenhouse’s broader works, such as orreries, telescopes, surveying compasses, and other scientific equipment. These objects are all lushly illustrated with new photography, including rarely seen pieces in private collections. Providing a more complete and accurate view of Rittenhouse’s genius, this volume highlights the breadth of his talent and importance to both science and art in early America.

Donald L. Fennimore, curator emeritus, served as metalwork specialist at Winterthur Museum, Garden & Library in Delaware for 34 years. Frank L. Hohmann, a retired Wall Street executive, is a collector of eighteenth-century furniture, with a concentration on brass dial clocks.

Independence Seaport Museum Acquires Folk Art Watercolor

Posted in museums by Editor on October 26, 2023

Attributed to Cornelius van Buskirk, Navigation Lesson, ca. 1780s–90s, watercolor and ink on paper
(Philadelphia: Independence Seaport Museum, gift of Maya Muir, 2023.010.001)

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From the press release (17 October 2023) . . .

In the late 1700s, when young boys were taught the art of navigation, it was common that they would have used a workbook to write out their examples and trigonometry equations and to explore navigational theories. An especially rare example—which includes not only these materials needed for study but also exquisitely rendered watercolor drawings of people, ships, charts, and a log from a voyage made in April 1799—was used by a boy named Cornelius van Buskirk (1776–1863). One such watercolor drawing, entitled Navigation Lesson, which had been removed from the workbook and retained by the artist’s descendent family, was recently given to the Independence Seaport Museum in Philadelphia to complement the actual workbook previously given to the museum by a direct descendant’s widow. What makes this already important drawing and larger document all the more extraordinary is that new research conducted by ISM staff shows that the figures in the drawing are of the young artist and his tutor, who is believed to be none other than Commodore John Barry (1745–1803), the man regarded as the father of the United States Navy.

“The Independence Seaport Museum is thrilled to have been given this wonderful watercolor,” said Peter Seibert, president and CEO of ISM. “Not only is it an artistic tour de force but we are also now able to reunite it with the original manuscript copy book in our collection. Together, they tell the story of both the father of the U.S. Navy and the young man who was his student.”

The watercolor, which relates in many ways to similar genre scenes from the Federal period, is especially well drawn. It shows ‘C. Buskirk’ receiving a lesson in navigation from ‘I. Barry’ in what appears to be a parlor or study of what is likely Barry’s home. (Van Buskirk Family tradition states that ‘I. Barry’ is Commodore John Barry as ‘I’ is a classical shorthand for ‘J.’) Typical of genre scenes of the time, the room features a black-and-white painted floor, and the overall symmetry of the piece relates it to coastal New England folk artists such as Joseph H. Davis (1811–1865). Similarly, Van Buskirk paid careful attention to the face and hair of the subjects, as did Pennsylvania German artist Jacob Maentel (1763–1863). The size of the drawing (24.5 × 31.5 inches) along with its accurate artistic attention to detail is impressive. Shown against a boldly colorful, geometric background, the scientific instruments carried by the figures are precisely rendered, suggesting that the artist had more than a passing familiarity with maritime navigational tools. Both subjects are holding instruments often used in 18th-century maritime navigation: Barry holds a radial arm protractor used to measure and draft angles on paper, while Van Buskirk holds a Gunter’s scale, which was used to calculate trigonometric functions. Van Buskirk is also standing next to two globes—one terrestrial and other celestial—showcasing the interplay of the heavens and the earth in early navigation practices, which relied on positions of the stars for seafaring. Another fascinating element of the work is the inclusion of a pair of naval engagement paintings that the artist incorporated into the background. Having a painting within a larger painting is a technique used by skilled artists to showcase and show off their talents. Such elements raise the artistic level of this work from the casual to the masterpiece.

New research conducted by the Independence Seaport Museum’s curatorial and archival staff support the tradition of the artist’s descendent family of ‘Barry’ being Commodore Barry, based upon stylistic comparisons, life events, and family provenance. The darker complexion and size of the older man matches scholarly descriptions of Barry as having a ruddy complexion and a considerably slimmer figure prior to 1790. As he and his fellow officers lost their jobs and were owed back pay after Congress disbanded the Continental Navy, taking small jobs like tutoring a young boy in maritime navigation is not farfetched. Given this, Barry would have been in his 40s and Van Buskirk approximately 10 years old, an ideal age to learn navigation.

“This painting drew me in instantly when the Independence Seaport Museum received it as a donation,” said Sarah Augustine, archivist at the Independence Seaport Museum. “It is a beautiful representation of early American folk art that provides a visual story of the scholarship and mystique surrounding 18th- century maritime navigation. Since we received this donation, I have been heavily involved in researching Van Buskirk, the context of the painting, and the potential connection to Commodore John Barry. I am thrilled that the public will now get to interact with this painting, which was cherished by five generations of Van Buskirk’s descendants.”

While it was previously speculated that the entire workbook was completed together in 1799, ISM research points to the first part of the manuscript, which contains the equations and drawings, to have been made prior to the 1799 voyage as it served as a later practicum for Van Buskirk.

In 1984, the navigation workbook from which this watercolor was removed, was donated to ISM by Mrs. Schuyler Cammann. In 2023, Maya Muir, Mrs. Cammann’s daughter, donated this painting as well as another watercolor and two portraits to the museum, reuniting the book with this work of art. The painting will be on view in ISM’s forthcoming exhibition that will serve as an introduction to the museum.

If true that Van Buskirk is the artist of Navigation Lesson, it would identify a new folk artist of considerable skill and talent whose other works have yet to be identified. Research by ISM staff continues on this important and rare document.

The Independence Seaport Museum (ISM), founded in 1960 as the Philadelphia Maritime Museum, encourages visitors to discover Philadelphia’s river of history and world of connections. Stewards of Cruiser Olympia and World War II-era Submarine Becuna, ISM is home to interactive and award-winning exhibitions, one of the largest collections of historic maritime artifacts in the world and a boatbuilding workshop. Accredited by the American Association of Museums since the 1970s, it is a premier, year-round destination on the Penn’s Landing waterfront.

Cleveland Acquires Works by Zoffany, Delacroix, and Emma Amos

Posted in museums by Editor on October 25, 2023

Johann Zoffany, The Dutton Family in the Drawing Room of Sherborne Park, Gloucestershire, ca. 1772, oil on canvas; unframed: 102 × 127 cm
(The Cleveland Museum of Art, Leonard C. Hanna Jr. Fund, 2023.122). 

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From the press release (19 October 2023) . . .

Recent acquisitions by the Cleveland Museum of Art (CMA) continue to add to the quality of the collection and to expand its depth and breadth. Visitors will soon be able to view a masterpiece by Johann Zoffany and important watercolors by Eugène Delacroix and Emma Amos.

Johann Zoffany, The Dutton Family in the Drawing Room of Sherborne Park, Gloucestershire
Conversation piece represents the culmination of Zoffany’s achievements in the genre

The Dutton Family in the Drawing Room of Sherborne Park, Gloucestershire is a masterpiece by Johann Zoffany, exemplifying the quintessentially English genre of which he was the most accomplished practitioner—the conversation piece. The Dutton family was painted around 1772, at the height of Zoffany’s career. The painting is in extraordinary condition, extensively published, has been a cornerstone of groundbreaking exhibitions, and twice achieved the record price for the artist at auction.

The CMA’s British paintings collection is distinguished primarily by great landscapes, individual portraits, and miniatures but has lacked that linchpin genre, the conversation piece. During the eighteenth century, these informal group portraits flourished among the newly wealthy middle class, for whom the genre provided the opportunity to perform the coded gestures of polite society and showcase the fashionable interiors that attested to their refinement. But the painting is also a timeless testament to that most intimate and complex network of relationships—the family. Conversation pieces give us an intimate glimpse into how British families socialized and decorated—or as importantly—how they wanted to be remembered as living.

The Dutton Family is among the final great conversation pictures remaining in private hands and represents the culmination of Zoffany’s achievements in the genre. This portrait depicts parents socializing with their son and daughter playing cards in a country house. The family is dressed in mourning following the death of a loved one. Executed with his trademark virtuosity and love of significant detail, this family portrait was so treasured by generations of Dutton heirs that it remained in the family collection for more than 150 years.

Eugène Delacroix, A Young Black Woman Fetching Water
Created in a new style consisting of bold colors and subject matter drawn from contemporary life

Eugène Delacroix, A Young Black Woman Fetching Water, 1832, graphite and watercolor on wove paper; sheet: 23 × 16 cm (The Cleveland Museum of Art, J. H. Wade Trust Fund, 2023.123).

Eugene Delacroix was among the most influential Romantic artists and, in the late 1820s, began to work on Orientalist images, the depiction of non-Western cultures by European artists. Young Black Woman Fetching Water presents a young Moroccan woman wearing a robe and headdress while holding a burnoose—a long, hooded cloak worn in Arab countries. She was almost certainly an enslaved African; from the Middle Ages, Morocco was a center of the international slave trade and continued to be so until the early twentieth century.

The watercolor is one of eighteen drawings that comprised the so-called ‘Mornay Album’ that the artist made during a diplomatic journey to Spain, Morocco, and Algeria in 1832 with the Count de Morney, the French ambassador to the Sultan of Morocco. Upon the completion of their travels together, Delacroix selected eighteen of his most prized watercolors and bound them in an album which he gave to de Mornay as a souvenir of their journey. These works are considered Delacroix’s greatest accomplishment in watercolor, a medium in which he was an avid and skilled practitioner. The drawings in the album were dispersed in 1877 in Mornay’s collection sale and are highly coveted today. Delacroix reconsidered the subject of these watercolor in 1834 in the celebrated painting Women of Algiers (Louvre Museum), which later modern artists from Vincent van Gogh to Paul Cezanne and Pablo Picasso each described as a direct inspiration for their work.

Emma Amos, The Gift
One of the African American artist’s most significant artworks

The Gift, one of the most significant works by the African American artist Emma Amos (1937–2020), comprises 48 individual watercolor portraits of women artists, writers, and curators in Amos’s community in New York in the early 1990s. The women pictured belong to different generations and are from a range of racial and ethnic backgrounds. Some of the subjects are well-known and others are not. Regardless of their status, every sitter is treated by Amos with curiosity, care, and attention that reflects the artist’s admiration of each woman she represents.

What motivated the artist to produce this formidable account of female creativity was a desire to make vivid to her daughter, India, the value of friendship and community. She created the work as a gift for India for her twentieth birthday. Especially remarkable for the confluence of ideas and histories that it brings together, The Gift is a manifestation of intergenerational feminist community building. In its content, it documents a particular cultural milieu. And in its form, it is an arresting work of portraiture. The Gift joins signature works in other media by Amos in the CMA’s collection: the painting Sandy and Her Husband, 1973 (2018.24), and the etching and aquatint Without Feather Boa, 1965 (2021.142).

Emma Amos, The Gift, 1990–94, 48 watercolor portraits; each: 66 × 50 cm; overall: 274 × 640 cm (The Cleveland Museum of Art, J. H. Wade Trust Fund, 2023.126).

A Portrait by Rosalba Carriera Newly Discovered

Posted in the 18th century in the news by Editor on October 25, 2023

A Santini prayer found in Rosalba Carriera’s Portrait of a Tyrolese Lady helped identify the piece as an original by the artist (Photo from Tatton Park and the National Trust). For more information on these paper prayers, see the catalogue for the recent exhibition in Dresden, Rosalba Carriera: Perfection in Pastel.

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As reported recently by a few media outlets, including ArtNet:

Sarah Cascone, “A Frick Curator Has Just Identified Rosalba Carriera as the Artist Behind an Unknown Portrait Languishing in Storage for Decades,” ArtNet (16 October 2023). A Roman Catholic prayer card slipped between the portrait and its frame offered proof that this was an original Carriera.

For 35 years, a delicate pastel portrait languished in storage at Tatton Park, a historic estate in Knutsford, Cheshire, in the UK. Then came a call from a curator in New York, asking to take a look. The work, it turned out, was by Rosalba Carriera, the renowned Venetian Rococo painter and pastelist, and one of art history’s most successful women artists.

Rosalba Carriera, Portrait of a Tyrolese Lady, pastel (Tatton Park and the National Trust).

The rediscovery came courtesy of Xavier Salomon, curator and deputy director at New York’s Frick Collection, who became interested in the Italian artist after the museum received a donation of two of her works in 2020.

“The more I started working on her, I realized there was a need for a new catalogue raisonné and biography,” Salomon said in a phone interview. “It’s going to take many years because she has hundreds of pastels all around the world, and I am just trying to see every single one of them.”

To date, the curator has looked at more than 200 Carriera pastels—but he’s also seen plenty, that while attributed to the artist, were actually copies by other artists. Tatton Park was just one of five homes in the UK’s National Trust Salomon had on his itinerary, one of which had a suite of five that turned out to be the work of British artists. But he was hopeful about Tatton Park, which, according to the National Trust’s inventory, had owned the Portrait of a Tyrolese Lady, identified as the work of Carriera, since the 18th century. . .

The full article is available here»

Colonial Williamsburg Receives Historic Clothing Collection

Posted in museums by Editor on October 24, 2023

From the press release (23 October 2023) . . .

Suit with coat, waistcoat, and breeches, Warsaw, Poland, 1787–95, owned by Lewis Littlepage. Coat: silk, linen, silver, gold, garnets, wood, paper; waistcoat: silk, copper, linen, wool, and paper; breeches: silk, linen, iron, wood, and paper (Colonial Williamsburg, Gift of The Valentine Museum, Richmond, 2023-21,1-3).

Adding to what is already a renowned assemblage of historic dress, The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation has recently received a gift of nearly 330 objects from The Valentine Museum in Richmond, Virginia as part of the redefinition of the museum’s holdings. The collection includes gowns, coats, trousers, breeches, waistcoats, vests, petticoats, underwear, accessories, hats, children’s clothing, and more, all of which predate 1840. Within the larger group is a 20-piece collection of garments that were owned by and descended through the stepfamily of Lewis Littlepage (1762–1802). It is the largest grouping of clothing owned by a single person to come into the Foundation’s collection.

“Historic dress allows us to look closely at the physical natures of people from the past, but we often know little about their lives,” said Ronald Hurst, the Foundation’s senior vice president for education and historic resources. “The Littlepage Collection provides a glimpse into the remarkable experiences of a Virginian whose path placed him in direct contact with world leaders at the end of the 18th century.”

Lewis Littlepage (1762–1802) was a Hanover County native whose story is as colorful as the garments he wore. It is a tale of diplomacy, adventure, war, friendship, enemies, debt, and deceit. Littlepage attended what was then known as the College of William and Mary in Williamsburg and later served with John Jay at the Court of Spain during the American Revolution. Due to problems with debt, he served with the Spanish Army during the attack on Minorca and the Siege of Gibraltar. By 1786 he was admitted to the Court of Poland where he served as a Chamberlain to King Stanislaw II until 1795. With war raging across Europe and the second partition of Poland, Littlepage was forced to leave the court and finally returned home in 1801. Possibly the best summary of Littlepage’s life comes from Lyon Gardiner Tyler, the president of William & Mary (as it is now called) from 1888 to 1919: “Perhaps a mere genius, Lewis Littlepage was the greatest that was ever born in Virginia. His story sounds like a fable taken from Arabian Nights. It far transcends that of Captain John Smith … his voluminous papers were nearly all destroyed by his executor, obedient to his direction. Had they been preserved, what tales of love and adventure at the Courts of Poland and Russia, and about subtle intrigues and secret conspiracies of Kings, Generals, and great diplomats, may have been disclosed.”

Waistcoat: Warsaw, Poland, 1785–95, wool, silk, wood, linen, owned by Lewis Littlepage (Colonial Williamsburg, Gift of The Valentine Museum, Richmond, VA, 2023-26).

When Littlepage died a bachelor in Fredericksburg, only nine months after returning from Europe, the inventory taken of his estate was fairly sparse in the way of the customary furniture, ceramics, and other saleable goods. It contained, however, a two-page, detailed list of his “cloathes [sic] and decorations,” worth $340. Aside from the typical items, such as one hat and 24 pairs of under drawers, the inventory contained objects including one green cloak given to him by the king of Poland, two coats given to him by the king of Spain, a pair of Cossack pistols, a pair of German pistols, and a Spanish sword. His small estate was left to his stepbrother Waller Holladay; the surviving objects passed directly through the Holladay family until gifted to The Valentine in 1952 by Mr. and Mrs. A. Randolph Holladay II.

Among the highlights of the collection to come to Colonial Williamsburg is a three-piece suit that, it is believed, Littlepage wore while at the Court of Catherine II of Russia. The suit—originally constructed in 1787 and comprised of a fully embroidered court coat, a single-breasted waistcoat, and matching breeches—saw continual wear as Littlepage did not become a member of the Order of Saint Stanislaus until 1790, when the badge was probably added to the breast of the coat. Made from a compound woven silk with several stripes of brown, blue, and white with a tiny blue check overtop, the coat was embroidered with a silver bullion edge with grey and white floral sprays down the center front, around and on the pocket flaps, cuffs, collar, the edge of the front pleat, and down the center back vent. The order was made on pasteboard or layers of paper, which shows inked drawings to indicate the pattern the embroiderer was to follow. The central motifs were made from a silvered disc with the royal monogram set in garnets of “SAR” (Stanislaus Augustus Rex). Around the embroidered monogram is the Latin motto “Praemiando Incitat” (Encouraged by Reward), and surrounding the phrase is a laurel wreath from which radiates an eight-pointed star worked in spangles and bullion. The matching waistcoat is embroidered with blue, white, and grey floral sprays. The borders down the center front were worked with copper bullion that is coated to make them blue. This waistcoat is made adjustable by two very large buckles attached at the back; buckles such as these are usually associated with the backs of breeches to make them adjust and are possibly a unique feature of Polish clothing. The breeches are made from a complex woven silk, lined throughout with plain off-white linen. They have a flap front that extends from side seam to side seam with five buttons at the top and two on each side. The waistband of the pocket contains two watch pockets with a button and buttonhole to close it. The back of the waistband retains its original iron buckle for adjustability. Beneath the flap there are two internal white linen pockets. Each knee closes with five buttons and buttonholes and a garter made to fit a set of knee buckles. Each of the garters are embroidered to match the rest of the suit.

“The Littlepage Collection offers a unique opportunity to study an individual’s style and how world politics affected their fashion,” said Neal Hurst, Colonial Williamsburg’s curator of historic dress and textiles. “It is such an amazing collection of clothing that tells an unbelievable story.”

Order of Saint Stanislaus Ribbon, Warsaw, Poland, 1790, silk, copper, enamel, glass, owned by Lewis Littlepage (Colonial Williamsburg, Gift of The Valentine Museum, Richmond, VA, 2023-23).

Another featured garment in this collection is a buff-colored, twilled woolen waistcoat with a tall, standing collar that Littlepage probably wore while he served as a Chamberlain and diplomat to the Court of Poland between 1785 and 1795. It is embroidered with silk threads in geometric patterns that resemble egg- and dart-like motifs. The front has two large cross or welt pockets with pocket bags made from white linen. At some point, the center back was enlarged with a wedge down its middle and the adjustable tapes were removed. The buttons and buttonhole are unusually closely spaced. Fascinatingly, found in the pocket was a piece of paper that reads “Si vous dedaignez mon vin je serais au désespoir,” (If you disdain my wine, I’ll be in despair).

In 1790, King Stanisław August Poniatowski of Poland awarded Lewis Littlepage the Order of Saint Stanislaus. This ribbon is yet another highlight of the recently acquired Littlepage Collection. The sash, a red-and-white silk moiré ribbon, was worn over the shoulder with an enameled badge that hung from the bottom. The badge is in the form of a Maltese cross and is made from paste stones with red foils set behind them. It is mounted around a green-bordered, central white enamel circle showing St. Stanislaus wearing vestments with the letters “SS” to each side of him. Between each of the points of the cross, enameled Polish eagles radiate from the center. The Littlepage Collection contains two surviving ribbons, one with its badge and one with the badge missing.

For a further look at the Littlepage Collection, please visit https://emuseum.history.org/, type “Littlepage” in the search, and all of the objects can be seen in full-color images along with interpreted text for each item.

New Book | Shirts, Shifts, and Sheets of Fine Linen

Posted in books by Editor on October 24, 2023

From Bloomsbury:

Pam Inder, Shirts, Shifts, and Sheets of Fine Linen: British Seamstresses from the 17th to the 19th Centuries (London: Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2024), 328 pages, ISBN: 978-1350252967, $115.

book coverIn the 17th and early 18th centuries, seamstressing was a trade for women who worked in linen and cotton, making men’s shirts, women’s chemises, underwear and baby linen; some of these seamstresses were consummate craftswomen, able to sew with stitches almost invisible to the naked eye. Few examples of their work survive, but those that do attest to their skill. However, as the ready-to-wear trade expanded in the 18th century, women who assembled these garments were also known as seamstresses, and by the 1840s, most seamstresses were outworkers for companies or entrepreneurs, paid unbelievably low rates per dozen for the garments they produced, notorious examples of downtrodden, exploited womenfolk. Drawing on a range of original and hitherto unpublished sources, including business diaries, letters, and bills, Shirts, Shifts, and Sheets of Fine Linen explores the seamstress’s change of status in the 19th century and the reasons for it, hinting at the resurgence of the trade today given so few women today are skilled at repairing and altering clothes. Illustrated with 60 images, the book brings seamstresses into focus as real people, granting new insights into working class life in 18th- and 19th-century Britain.

Pam Inder is an independent scholar and was formerly Curator of Applied Arts at first Exeter and then Leicestershire Museums (specialising in dress history), after being an Assistant Curator at Birmingham City Art Gallery. She has also taught at Staffordshire and De Montfort Universities.

c o n t e n t s

List of Plates
List of Illustrations
List of Tables
Acknowledgements

Introduction
1  ‘The Art and Mystery of Simistry’ in the 17th and 18th Centuries
2  ‘Well-handed Needlewomen’
3  The Development of Ready-to-Wear
4  ‘Linnen Drapery at Reasonable Rates’, 1720–1820
5  Slops and Slop-sellers
6  ‘Seam and Gusset and Band’
7  ‘Society Came and Shuddered’
8  Bespoke Needlework
9  Real Lives
10  The Seamstress in Art and Literature
Conclusion

 

New Book | The Modern Venus

Posted in books by Editor on October 24, 2023

From Bloomsbury:

Elisabeth Gernerd, The Modern Venus: Dress, Underwear, and Accessories in the Late 18th-Century Atlantic World (London: Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2023), 280 pages, ISBN: 978-1350293380 (hardback), £85 ($115) / ISBN: 978-1350293373 (paperback), £28 ($38).

From rumps and stays to muffs and handkerchiefs, underwear and accessories were critical components of the 18th-century woman’s wardrobe. They not only created her shape, but expressed her character, sociability, fashionability, and even political allegiances. These so-called ephemeral flights of fashion were not peripheral and supplementary, but highly charged artefacts, acting as cultural currency in contemporary society.

book coverThe Modern Venus highlights the significance of these elements of a woman’s wardrobe in 1770s and 1780s Britain and the Atlantic World, and shows how they played their part in transforming fashionable dress when this was expanding to new heights and volumes. Dissecting the female silhouette into regions of the body and types of dress and shifting away from a broad-sweeping stylistic evolution, this book explores these potent players within the woman’s armoury. Marrying material, archival and visual approaches to dress history, and drawing on a rich range of sources—including painted portraiture, satirical prints, diaries, memoirs—The Modern Venus unpacks dress as a medium and mediator in women’s lives. It demonstrates the importance of these overlooked garments in defining not just a woman’s silhouette, but also her social and cultural situation, and thereby shapes our understanding of late 18th-century life. With over 125 color images, The Modern Venus is a remarkable resource for scholars, students, and costume lovers alike.

Elisabeth Gernerd is a historian of 18th-century dress, art, and material culture. She is a lecturer in design cultures at De Montfort University, and a former postdoctoral fellow at Historic Royal Palaces, UCLA, and the Paul Mellon Centre for Studies in British Art.

c o n t e n t s

List of Figures
Acknowledgements
List of Abbreviations

Introduction: Fashioning the Modern Venus
1. Head First: Brimmed Hats and Calashes on the Tides of Fashion
2  ‘Let Us Examine Their Tails’: The Material and Satirical Lifecycles of Cork Rumps and Bums
3  By Hand: Silk and Fur Muffs
4  Tight Lacing: The Motifs and Materiality of Stays
Conclusion: ‘The Fickle Goddess’

Bibliography
Index

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Note (added 27 October 2023) — This posting originally appeared on October 27, it was moved to October 24 to align with other related postings from that day.