Journée d’étude | Mode, luxe et metiers a Paris au 18e siecle

Posted in conferences (summary) by Editor on January 28, 2015

From H-ArtHist:

Mode, luxe et metiers a Paris au 18e siecle
Hôtel Soubise, Paris, 3 February 2015

Cette journée d’étude organisée par l’association ART & LUXE à l’hôtel Soubise, 60 rue des Francs Bourgeois à Paris, mardi 3 février 2015, de 14h à 17h, aura pour thème les métiers de la mode et du luxe à Paris au 18e siècle.

À cette occasion seront réunis des spécialistes de l’estampe de mode, de l’histoire des métiers et du style: Pascale Cugy, Clare Haru Crowston, Christian Baulez et Georgina Letourmy-Bordier. Pascale Cugy, auteur d’une thèse récente sur l’estampe de mode, mettra en images les métiers de la mode et du luxe sous l’Ancien Régime. La présence exceptionnelle de Clare Haru Crowston, professeur d’histoire de l’Europe moderne, résidant aux Etats-Unis et travaillant sur l’apprentissage en France sous l’Ancien Régime, permettra une rencontre unique au sujet de ses récentes recherches sur les marchandes de modes à Paris au 18e siècle. Cette journée sera aussi l’opportunité offerte par Christian Baulez, conservateur général honoraire du Patrimoine, de présenter le mobilier récemment acquis par le musée des archives nationales pour l’hôtel de Rohan à Paris. Georgina Letourmy-Bordier, expert en éventails, assistée de Sylvain Le Guen, éventailliste, aborderont ensemble ce métier bien particulier, sur lequel peu de travaux sont encore accessibles, et feront une démonstration en objets.

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14:00  Corinne Thépaut-Cabasset (Paris): Accueil

14:30  Pascale Cugy (Université Rennes-2): Costumes grotesques: Mettre en images les métiers de la mode et du luxe en France sous l’Ancien Régime

15:00  Clare Haru Crowston (University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign): Les marchandes de modes, un métier célèbre mais encore peu connu

15:30  Christian Baulez (Château de Versailles): Mathieu Debauve, menuisier en sièges des Voyer d’Argenson

16:00  Georgina Letourmy-Bordier (Paris): Entre atelier et boutique, les éventaillistes parisiens au XVIIIe siècle

16:30  Sylvain Le Guen (Paris): Fabriquer l’éventail aujourd’hui

17:00  Discussion

La session sera suivie d’une visite des salons du premier étage où sont exposés les sièges réalisés par Mathieu Debauve sur les dessins de Charles de Wailly, acquis en 2012 pour le musée des Archives nationales de France.

Dans la limite des places disponibles et sur inscription à :
Association ART & LUXE
38 boulevard Henri IV 75004 Paris


New Book | Back to the Garden: Nature and the Mediterranean World

Posted in books by Editor on January 28, 2015

From Yale UP:

James H. S. McGregor, Back to the Garden: Nature and the Mediterranean World from Prehistory to the Present (New Haven: Yale University Press, 2015), 384 pages, ISBN: 978-0300197464, $38.

9780300197464The garden was the cultural foundation of the early Mediterranean peoples; they acknowledged their reliance on and kinship to the land, and they understood nature through the lens of their diversely cultivated landscape. Their image of the garden underwrote the biblical book of Genesis and the region’s three major religions.

In this important melding of cultural and ecological histories, James H. S. McGregor suggests that the environmental crisis the world faces today is a result of Western society’s abandonment of the ‘First Nature’ principle—of the harmonious interrelationship of human communities and the natural world. The author demonstrates how this relationship, which persisted for millennia, effectively came to an end in the late eighteenth century, when ‘nature’ came to be equated with untamed landscape devoid of human intervention. McGregor’s essential work offers a new understanding of environmental accountability while proposing that recovering the original vision of ourselves, not as antagonists of nature but as cultivators of a biological world to which we innately belong, is possible through proven techniques of the past.

James H. S. McGregor is the author of five books on world cities. He is emeritus professor of comparative literature at the University of Georgia and lives in Cambridge, MA.

Doctoral Studentship | ‘Nature’ in China and Europe, 1500–1800

Posted in fellowships by Editor on January 27, 2015

From H-ArtHist:

Doctoral Studentship: Conceptualising ‘Nature’ in China and Europe, 1500–1800
University of Exeter, 1 September 2015 — 31 August 2018

Applications due by 15 February 2015

The College of Humanities at the University of Exeter is offering a PhD studentship beginning in September 2015, working for the EU Marie Curie-funded project ‘Nature Entangled’ led by Dr Yue Zhuang (Chinese Studies) at the University of Exeter:

One Doctoral Studentship (open to UK/EU and International students) with all tuition fees paid and annual maintenance grant for three years. The maintenance grant will be £13,863 per year.

The subject of your studentship will be the history of conceptualising ‘Nature’ in China and Europe from 1500–1800. Working across disciplines—art (architectural) history, cultural history and China-Europe relations—you will examine the historical legacy shared between China and Europe in envisioning the ‘natural’ living environment in relation to the well-being of citizens and the state.

The studentship will also offer joint supervision by an eminent professor, Prof. Shaoxin Dong at the National Institute of Advanced Humanistic Studies in Fudan University, Shanghai, China. The student will spend one/half year in China for research and fieldwork. The student will benefit from library and archival resources from across the consortium as well as activities such as student events, conferences and the fostering of peer support networks.

Successful applicants normally have a good first degree (at least 2.1, or international equivalent) in a relevant field of humanities, and have obtained, or are currently working towards, a master’s degree at Merit level, or international equivalent. If English is not your native language then you will also need to satisfy our English language entry requirements. English (fluent) and Chinese (advanced level) are essential whilst other languages such as Italian, Latin, French, or Dutch are desirable. You will be an active member of a research team of four and will contribute to the project’s publications as well as produce an outstanding PhD thesis.

To be considered for this Doctoral award, you must complete an online web form where you must submit some personal details and upload a covering letter setting out your suitability for this project, a full CV, research proposal, transcripts, details of two referees and, if relevant, proof of your English language proficiency, by 15 February 2015. Your research proposal should be no more than 4 sides of A4 in length and should be related to the history of ideas of ‘Nature’ in the landscape discourses of China and Europe in 1500–1800.

In addition you must also ensure that your referees email their references to the Postgraduate Administrator at humanities-pgadmissions@exeter.ac.uk by 15 February 2015. Please note that we will not be contacting referees to request references, you must arrange for them to be submitted to us by the deadline.

References should be submitted by your referees to us directly in the form of a letter. Referees must email their references to us from their institutional email accounts. We cannot accept references from personal/private email accounts, unless it is a scanned document on institutional headed paper and signed by the referee. All application documents must be submitted in English. Certified translated copies of academic qualifications must also be provided. Guidelines on submitting references to us can be found on our dedicated page, where you can also download a copy of our institutional reference form for your referees to complete and return to us, or for them to use as a guide.

More information is available here»


Conference | Tracing the Heroic through Gender: 1650, 1750, 1850

Posted in conferences (to attend) by Editor on January 26, 2015

As posted at H-ArtHist:

Heroes—Heroizations—Heroisms: Tracing the Heroic through Gender
Freiburg Institute for Advanced Studies, 26–28 February 2015

In most societies the heroic is in many ways gendered. When considering the heroic, attributes of masculinity might first come to mind. Yet, from a historical perspective it becomes apparent that heroizations also often have feminine connotations. The social and cultural production of the heroic cannot be analyzed exclusively in terms of masculinity; nor can we regard women or femininity merely as exceptions in this field. Rather, we need to reconsider the relational character of the category gender. We propose to use gender as an analytical tool in a new way. Metaphorically speaking, gender as a ‘tracer’ can help us uncover new aspects of heroic ideas and concepts. In natural science experiments, a ‘tracer’ passes through different environments and reacts to each of them in a different way. Hence, the tracer is not the object of study, but is used to examine a third element: our conference shall try to use gender systematically to ‘trace’ various historical ‘environments’ of the heroic. By using gender as a tracer, the conference will explore forms, mediums and processes of heroization as well as discourses of heroic transgression, exceptionality or veneration. The conference will focus on three points in time (1650, 1750, 1850) and the continuities and transformations that may become apparent from interrelating the tracing results in a diachronic perspective.

Please register by an informal e-mail: info@sfb948.uni-freiburg.de. More information is available at the research program website. Questions may be directed to Andreas Friedrich, andreas.friedrich@sfb948.uni-freiburg.de.

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T H U R S D A Y ,  2 6  F E B R U A R Y  2 0 1 5

14:00  Introduction

Panel 1: 1650
14:30  Women in writings on the heroic in 17th-century academic instruction, Joseph Freedman (Montgomery, Alabama)
15:15  Anti-heroes: Masculinity and civic ethics in literary academies of 17th-century Florence, Eva Struhal (Québec)
16:30  Gendering fear: Transformations of courage and masculinity in heroic drama, Christiane Hansen (Freiburg)
17:15  Testing times for anxious he-roes: Tracing the end of a heroic figuration in England and France, ca. 1650, Andreas Schlüter (Freiburg)

Evening Lecture
18:30  From viragos to valkyries: Transformations of the heroic woman from the 17th to the 19th century, Helen Watanabe-O’Kelly (Oxford)

F R I D A Y ,  2 7  F E B R U A R Y  2 0 1 5

Panel 2: 1750
9:30  (Keynote lecture) When heroes sigh… Sentimental heroism in 18th-century opera, Melanie Unseld (Oldenburg)
11:00  A reigning woman as a heroic monarch? Maria Theresa and the roles of emperor, wife and mother, Anne-Marie Wurster (Freiburg)
11:45  Creating and subverting German models of ‘Galanterie’? Heroes and heroines in texts by Christian Friedrich Hunold and Maria Aurora von Königsmarck, Madeleine Brook (Oxford)

Panel 3: 1850
14:00  Heroism of a melancholy look from blue eyes, Petra Polláková (Prague)
14:45  What is the Polish peasant hero’s gender? Representations of peasant citizenship in Polish culture, ca. 1850, Alicja Kusiak-Brownstein (Ann Arbor, Michigan)
15:30  Untangling the heroic from the sacrifice: Malwida von Meysenbug’s attempt to appropriate a common female topos in and for her political novel Phädra (1885), Birgit Mikus (Oxford)

Lecture and Round-table Discussion
16:45  Rethinking the heroic: Difference as a tracer?, Monika Mommertz (Freiburg)

Concert Talk
20:00  ‘En travesti’ The female as male in early 19th-century operas, Thomas Seedorf (Karlsruhe/Freiburg)
Mezzosoprano: Felicitas Brunke / Piano: Freya Jung

S A T U R D A Y ,  2 8  F E B R U A R Y  2 0 1 5

Panel 4: Connections
9:30  Gendering the operatic sound of the heroic: 1647 – 1749 – 1843, Anke Charton (Leipzig)
10:15  Victorian male heroes and romance in Elizabeth Bowen’s short fiction, Laura Lojo-Rodríguez (Santiago de Compostela)
11:15  The tragic hero and the gendered imaginary in early modern German drama, Barbara Becker-Cantarino (Columbus, Ohio)

Exhibition | The U.S. Constitution and the End of American Slavery

Posted in exhibitions by Editor on January 25, 2015

Press release (24 November 2014) from The Huntington:

The U.S. Constitution and the End of American Slavery
The Huntington, San Marino, California, 24 January — 20 April 2015

Curated by Olga Tsapina

In commemoration of the 150th anniversary of the passage of the 13th Amendment to the U.S. Constitution, The Huntington Library, Art Collections, and Botanical Gardens will illuminate the complexities of ending slavery with an exhibition drawn from its renowned collections of American historical manuscripts and prints. “The U.S. Constitution and the End of American Slavery” will be on view in the West Hall of the Library from January 24 until April 20, 2015.

Thomas Jefferson, notes on the 12th Amendment, ca. 1803 (The Huntington Library, Art Collections, and Botanical Gardens)

Thomas Jefferson, notes on the 12th Amendment, ca. 1803 (The Huntington Library, Art Collections, and Botanical Gardens)

“The exhibition follows a long, tortuous, and bloody road that led to that fateful vote,” said Olga Tsapina, the Norris Foundation Curator of American Historical Manuscripts and curator of the exhibition. On January 31, 1865, Schuyler Colfax, the speaker of the U.S. House of Representatives, called for a vote on a joint resolution that would amend the Constitution to abolish slavery throughout the United States and empower Congress to “enforce this article by appropriate legislation.” After the clerk read the tally—119 ayes to 56 nays, with eight abstaining—the House erupted in wild jubilation. American slavery was dead. “The 119 congressmen who voted ‘aye’ on January 31, 1865, accomplished two things that seemed nearly impossible—abolishing slavery and amending the U.S. Constitution,” Tsapina added.

Many hurdles stood in the way of ending slavery: racism, fear, political partisanship, economic interests, and the lack of political will, to name a few. The Constitution presented the most formidable obstacle. The very same national charter that had created a republic dedicated to liberty also guaranteed the rights of Americans who owned human property, said Tsapina. For example, the Constitution mandated that each state respect the other states’ laws, even while Southern states permitted ownership of slaves. “But this is just one area of the Constitution that was problematic,” she added. “There were many others, and they all factored into what was a tremendously complicated—and daunting—matter.”

The conflict between the foundational principles of liberty and the reality of American slavery proved to be irreconcilable. After decades of increasingly bitter discord, it finally broke the Union apart, plunging the nation into civil war in 1861. Even the war failed to end human bondage. That was achieved only by changing the Constitution in a way its framers could not have imagined.

Featuring some 100 manuscripts, rare books, prints, and photographs, most exhibited for the first time, the exhibition will offer Huntington visitors a rare opportunity to experience the history of what Colfax called “that great measure, which hereafter will illuminate the highest place in our History” through the extraordinary breadth and depth of The Huntington’s collections.

The exhibition includes the writings of abolitionists and slave masters; runaway slaves and slave speculators; African American emigrants to Liberia and members of the Underground Railroad; and legal scholars and leaders of political parties. Visitors will see manumissions (formal documents freeing slaves from servitude) and slave traders’ business correspondence, letters from Civil War battlefields, and congressional speeches and resolutions, as well as political cartoons representing viewpoints from both sides of the partisan divide.

The display includes a 1796 letter by President George Washington discussing the fate of his runaway slave, Ona Marie ‘Oney’ Judge; Thomas Jefferson’s notes on amending the Constitution; a notebook from the famous abolitionist John Brown; and the writings of Francis Lieber, the celebrated author of the U.S. Army military code that was praised as “better than the Emancipation Proclamation.” The exhibition will feature letters and manuscripts from The Huntington’s famous collection of Abraham Lincoln material, including Lincoln’s record of his debates with Stephen A. Douglas and a copy of the 13th Amendment signed by the president.

“‘The U.S. Constitution and the End of American Slavery’ tells a complex and fascinating story in which the fate of American slavery was decided not only on Civil War battlefields, but also in courtrooms, the debating floors of state legislatures and the chambers of the U.S. Congress, as well as in proverbial smoke-filled rooms,” said Tsapina.

Display | Working Women: Images of Female Labor

Posted in exhibitions by Editor on January 25, 2015

From The Huntington:

Working Women: Images of Female Labor in the Art of Thomas Rowlandson
The Huntington, San Marino, California, 20 December 2014 — 13 April 2015

Thomas Rowlandson, A French Frigate Towing an English Man o’ War into Port, no date, pen and watercolor (The Huntington Library, Art Collections, and Botanical Gardens; Gilbert Davis Collection)

Thomas Rowlandson, A French Frigate Towing an English Man o’ War into Port, no date, pen and watercolor (The Huntington Library, Art Collections, and Botanical Gardens; Gilbert Davis Collection)

As one of Britain’s premier draftsmen, Thomas Rowlandson (1756–1827) lent his vast talent to the comic depiction of a wide range of topics, from politics to pornography. His satirical views of Georgian society are among his strongest work, and The Huntington’s collection focuses primarily on this aspect of his oeuvre. Rowlandson’s observations of the follies of the world around him provide us with a view of late 18th- and early 19th-century England that goes beyond what we see in aristocratic portraits or in the prose of Jane Austen, which portray a world of grand ladies and gentlemen and genteel manners.

This display of 11 rarely-exhibited watercolors from the collection focuses on Rowlandson’s depiction of women. His subjects are primarily those who were most visible within the public sphere—street vendors, servants, actresses, and prostitutes as they plied their various trades—with an occasional glance at the foibles of the upper class. Eschewing complex political or philosophical messages, Rowlandson’s images, though humorous, provide a fascinating glimpse into the reality of women’s lives at this time.

Call for Articles | Court Etiquette

Posted in Calls for Papers by Editor on January 24, 2015

From the Call for Articles:

Court Etiquette: Normative Texts and Customs, 2014–16 Research Progamme
Bulletin du Centre de recherche du château de Versailles

Antoine Dieu, Marriage of Louis de France, Duke of Burgundy and Marie-Adélaïde de Savoie, 7 December 1697 (Château de Versailles, MV2095)

Antoine Dieu, Marriage of Louis de France, Duke of Burgundy and Marie-Adélaïde de Savoie, 7 December 1697 (Château de Versailles)

For its three-year research programme (2014–16), the Centre de recherche du château de Versailles has launched a research axis on Court Etiquette: Normative Texts and Customs and wishes to publish articles related to this subject in the Bulletin du Centre de recherche du château de Versailles.

Although the word etiquette has today taken on an accepted meaning that might appear clear and well defined, it quickly becomes clear that this notion is far from self-evident. In addition to the fact that people often confuse ‘ceremonial’, ‘protocol’ and ‘etiquette’, the latter term was only used rarely at the time, and often with very different meanings. Whether in Richelet’s dictionary or Furetière’s, the lexicographers took it in what was essentially a legal sense. In fact, in France, the word related to elements of judicial procedure. However, the dictionary of the Académie Française (starting with its 1718 edition and in the last definition it gives of the word) recalls the familiar use of this word in Spain in the sense of “what must be done daily in the King’s Household, and in the principal ceremonies.” The absence of the current definition of the word etiquette in contemporary dictionaries in no way means that the word was not used in this sense in the language. We have evidence of this in a letter by Madame Palatine dated 3 February 1679 in which the Duchess of Orléans explained that she had never been able to get used to this “insipid etiquette.”

Bernard Hours in his study on the court of Louis XV describes the historical authenticity and origins of French etiquette (Louis XV et Sa Cour, Paris, PUF, coll. “Le Nœud Gordien”, 2002, p. 77–98). It goes back to the Burgundian court of Philippe le Bon in the 15th century when “it referred to a written formula setting out the timetable of the prince and his court” (ibid., p. 78). From then on, there was an effort to retain the customs in order to perpetuate them. As situations developed, so did etiquette and each new code was recorded to establish a precedent.

This line of research aims to formalise the unwritten customs of the French court. In fact, in contrast to the many systematic studies carried out particularly on the Hapsburg court in Madrid and those on the court in Vienna, French etiquette has always been universally viewed according to the customs and rituals of the court. The main objective here is to understand the evolution of etiquette as it developed, improved and declined.

Article proposals can deal with one or several of the following themes and lines of enquiry:
• The definition of etiquette
• The origins and emergence of etiquette
• The nature of etiquette in relation to court ritual
• The circumstances in which etiquette was applied (large household, ceremonial occasions, rituals) and etiquette according to topography, and vice versa
• Etiquette as a political tool, or a means to control or civilise
• Who determines or arbitrates on matters of etiquette?
• Are courtisans the protagonists, driving force or victims of etiquette?
• A Europe-wide expansion of etiquette

Authors can refer to a non-exhaustive bibliography on the subject (available as a PDF file).

Article proposals (abstracts of about 5,000 characters) should be addressed to Mathieu da Vinha (mathieu.da-vinha@chateauversailles.fr) in French or in English. These proposals will be reviewed by the scientific committee. If the proposals are accepted by the scientific committee, the full articles will be examined both by the latter and by two members of the Centre de recherche du château de Versailles’s peer review committee (or by external scholars appointed by the scientific or peer review committee if necessary). Articles must be submitted before 31 December 2015. Proposals can be submitted in French, English, German, Italian, or Spanish. The final articles will be 40,000 characters maximum (bibliography and footnotes included). Authors should comply with the editorial guidelines of the Bulletin du Centre de recherche du château de Versailles.

Scientific Committee of the Court Etiquette Research Programme
Mathieu da Vinha (Centre de recherche du château de Versailles), Raphaël Masson (château de Versailles), Alice Camus (Centre de recherche du château de Versailles), Delphine Carrangeot (université de Versailles Saint-Quentin-en-Yvelines, centre de recherche ESR-DYPAC), Nicole Lallement (Centre de recherche du château de Versailles), Bénédicte Lecarpentier-Bertrand (université Paris-Est Créteil Val-de-Marne), Pauline Lemaigre-Gaffier (université de Versailles Saint-Quentin-en-Yvelines, centre de recherche ESR-DYPAC), Benjamin Ringot (Centre de recherche du château de Versailles)

Peer Review Committee
Marc Bayard (Mobilier national), Monique Chatenet (université Paris-Sorbonne/École du Louvre), Anne Conchon (université Paris 1 Panthéon-Sorbonne), Claire Constans (conservateur général honoraire du patrimoine), Alexandre Gady (Centre André Chastel/université Paris-Sorbonne), Pauline Lemaigre-Gaffier (université de Versailles Saint-Quentin-en-Yvelines, centre de recherche ESR-DYPAC), Nicolas Le Roux (université Lumière – Lyon 2),Nicole Reinhardt (université de Durham, Grande-Bretagne), Thierry Sarmant (musée Carnavalet)

Exhibition | Shoes: Pleasure and Pain

Posted in books, catalogues, exhibitions by Editor on January 23, 2015


Pale-blue shoes, silk satin with silver lace and braid, diamond and sapphire buckles, England, 1750s (London: V&A: T.70+A—1947; M.48+A—1962). Photographed on the mantelpiece in The Norfolk House Music Room, the British Galleries at the V&A.

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Press release from the V&A:

Shoes: Pleasure and Pain
Victoria & Albert Museum, London, 13 June 2015 — 31 January 2016
The Bowes Museum, Barnard Castle, County Durham, 11 June — 9 October 2016
Peabody Essex Museum, Salem, Massachusetts, 9 November 2016 — 12 March 2017
Savannah College of Art and Design, Savannah, Georgia, March — June 2017

Curated by Helen Persson

The transformative power of extreme footwear will be explored in the V&A’s summer 2015 fashion exhibition, Shoes: Pleasure and Pain. More than 200 pairs of historic and contemporary shoes from around the world will be on display, many for the first time. The exhibition will explore the agonizing aspect of wearing shoes as well as the euphoria and obsession they can inspire.

The V&A’s shoe collection is unrivalled, spanning the globe and over 2000 years. For Shoes: Pleasure and Pain, curator Helen Persson has delved into this, other international collections and the wardrobes of private individuals to select an exceptional range of shoes from a sandal decorated in pure gold leaf originating from ancient Egypt to futuristic looking shoes created using 3D printing.

ShoesShoes worn by or associated with high profile figures including Marilyn Monroe, Queen Victoria, Sarah Jessica Parker, and the Hon Daphne Guinness will be shown as well as famous shoes, such as the ballet slippers designed for Moira Shearer in the 1948 film The Red Shoes. Footwear for men and women by 70 named designers including Manolo Blahnik, Christian Louboutin, Jimmy Choo, and Prada will be on display. Historic lotus shoes made for bound feet and 16th-century chopines, silk mules with vertiginous platforms designed to lift skirts above the muddy streets, will also feature.

Exhibition curator, Helen Persson, said: “Shoes are one of the most telling aspects of dress. Beautiful, sculptural objects, they are also powerful indicators of gender, status, identity, taste and even sexual preference. Our choice in shoes can help project an image of who we want to be.”

The exhibition will be shown over two floors. The luxurious, boudoir design of the ground floor gallery will examine three themes: transformation, status, and seduction.

‘Transformation’ will present shoes that are the things of myth and legend, opening with different cultural interpretations of the Cinderella story from across the globe. It will explore the concept of shoes being empowering as passed down through folklore, illustrated by the Seven League Boots from the ‘Hop o’ My Thumb’ tale, and how this feeds into contemporary marketing for such things as football boots and the concept of modern-day, fairy-tale shoemakers, whose designs will magically transform the life of the wearer.

‘Status’ will reveal how impractical shoes have been worn to represent privileged and leisurely lifestyles—their design, shape and material can often make them unsuitable for walking—and how shoes also dictate the way in which the wearer moves, how they are seen and even heard. Shoes on display will include Indian men’s shoes with extremely long toes, noisy slap-sole shoes worn in Europe during the 17th century and the now infamous Vivienne Westwood blue platforms worn by Naomi Campbell in 1993. ‘Status’ will also demonstrate how historically shoe fashions originated from the European royal courts, while today the focus has shifted to famous shoe designers. Desirable shoes such as the ‘Pompadour’, worn by trend-setting women in the 18th-century French court will sit together with designs by the some of the most well-known names in fashion today, including Alexander McQueen and Sophia Webster.

Within ‘Seduction’, the shoes represent an expression of sexual empowerment or a passive source of pleasure. Like feet, shoes can be objects of fetishism. High Japanese geta, extreme heels, and tight-laced leather boots will be on display as well as examples of erotic styles channeled by mainstream fashion in recent years.

In contrast, the laboratory style setting of the first floor gallery is dedicated to dissecting the processes involved in designing and creating footwear, laying out the story from concept to final shoe. This will be enhanced by films and animations that peel back the layers of a shoe and reveal how they are made. The displays will show how makers combine traditional craftsmanship with technological innovation and how they unite function with art.

Designer sketches, materials, embellishments and shoe lasts, such as the lasts created by H. & M. Rayne for Princess Diana, will be on show, alongside ‘pullovers’ from Roger Vivier for Christian Dior. The section will highlight the makers’ ingenuity in creating innovative styles and dealing with the structural challenges of creating ever higher heels and more dramatic shapes and will feature filmed interviews with five designers and makers.

The exhibition will go on to examine shifts in consumption and production—with examples from an 18th-century ‘cheap shoe warehouse’, one-off handmade men’s brogues and trainers made in China. It will also look at the future of shoe design, with experiments of material and shapes, moulding and plastics. On display will be footwear that pushes the boundaries of possibility, including the form-pressed ‘Nova’ shoes designed by Zaha Hadid with an unsupported 16cm heel and Andreia Chaves’ ‘Invisible Naked’ shoes that fuse a study of optical illusion with 3D printing and high quality leather making techniques. The last section of the exhibition will look at shoes as commodities and collectibles. Six different people’s collections will be presented from trainers to luxury footwear.

Sponsored by Clarks, supported by Agent Provocateur, with additional thanks to the Worshipful Company of Cordwainers

Note (added 14 June 2016) — Venues updated to reflect the latest schedule.

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A preview of the accompanying publication is available via Issuu:

Helen Perrson, ed., Shoes: Pleasure and Pain (London: V&A Publishing, 2015), 176 pages ISBN: 978-1851778324, £25 / $40.

9781851778324_p0_v1_s600Beautiful, sculptural objects, shoes are powerful indicators of gender, status, identity, taste, and even sexual preference. Our choice in shoes can be aspirational, even fantastical—and projects an image not just of who we are, but who we want to be. Feet are made for walking, but shoes may not be. Featuring extensive new photography, this is a beautiful and authoritative guide to the history and culture of footwear. Iconic creations by celebrated designers sit alongside masterpieces by unknown craftsmen in this book.

Embracing both men’s and women’s footwear, from the Chinese lotus shoe to laser-printed contemporary shoes-as-sculpture, Shoes: Pleasure and Pain engages with the cultural significance of shoes—the source of their allure, how they are made, and the people who buy and wear them. Contributors from a wide range of disciplines consider subjects as diverse as ballet slippers and fetishism, shoes and ceramics, traditional shoemaking, and the obsessive shoe collector. The book also includes a comprehensive discussion of the history of shoe design, and case studies including Marie-Antoinette’s shoe collection and the footwear of the Maharajas.

Helen Persson is curator of Chinese textiles and dress in the V&A’s Asian Department.

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Helen Persson, Introduction

Part 1: The Lure of Shoes
Hilary Davidson, Shoes and Magical Objects
Elizabeth Semmelhack, The Allure of Height
Rowan Bain, Status and Power in the Hamam
Divia Patel, Bling: Footwear of the Maharajas
Cassie Davies-Strodder, Shoes and Sex
Valerie Steele, Ballet Shoes and Fetishism
Rowan Bain, The Shoe and the Body

Part 2: Art and Innovation
Naomi Braithwaite, Shoe Design: Creativity and Process
Helen Persson, The Beauty of Shoemaking
Jana Scholze, Extreme Future
Sonia Solicari, The Shoemaker and the Ceramicist
Joanne Hackett, Plastic Galore
Christopher Breward, Men in Heels

Part 3: Shoe Obsession
Cally Blackman, The Rise of the Celebrity Shoe Designer
Giorgio Riello, Production for Consumption
Kirstin Kennedy, Cracowes and Duckbills
Helen Persson, Lotus Shoes for the Masses
Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell, Marie Antoinette’s Love of Shoes
Karin M. Ekström, The Show Cabinet: Collectors Case Study

Parts of a Shoe
Picture Credits

Call for Papers | Know Thyself: Early Modern Images

Posted in Calls for Papers by Editor on January 23, 2015

From H-ArtHist:

Know Thyself: A Conference on Early Modern Images
University College London, 2 May 2015

Proposals due by 2 February 2015

Nosce te ipsum/ know thyself

The tragedy of Narcissus was his failure to recognise the image he admired on the surface of the pool as his own. His fate might have improved, had he possessed the deeper self-knowledge implied by the Delphic maxim, “know thyself.” The question prompted by Narcissus, of how images pertain to self-knowledge, is especially relevant to the Early Modern period, during which the ancient aphorism nosce te ipsum was engaged provocatively in a range of visual material: it is quoted in illustrations of anatomy, natural history and cartography, and evoked in religious and secular works of art. This renewed cultural imperative to self-knowledge is bound up with the scientific and technological advancements of the period. It is epitomised by the technical refinement of the looking glass, which enabled a person to admire—or better, scrutinise—her own face with unprecedented clarity.

The premise of this conference is that consideration of the Delphic maxim can be productively channeled into interrogating the role of the image in relation to the self: How might images mobilise the philosophical challenge to “know thyself”? What are the mechanisms within images that invite participation in the practices of selfdiscovery and self-representation? The conference aims to explore the role of visuality in the early modern pursuit of self-knowledge in a broad sense. As such, it invites approaches to visual material by which the Delphic maxim is evoked knowingly, or otherwise. Focusing on images from the period c.1500–1800, proposals for papers may include, but are by no means limited to: mortality and bodily materiality, cultural identity and difference (race, religion, gender…), subjectivity and self-fashioning, and encounters with the new world and new technologies.

UCL Department of History of Art invites proposals for 20-minute presentations on the theme of ‘self-knowledge’ in early modern images. Please send abstracts of no more than 300 words to Sophie Morris
sophie.morris@ucl.ac.uk and Nathanael Price n.price.12@ucl.ac.uk by 2nd February 2015.


ASECS 2015, Los Angeles

Posted in conferences (to attend) by Editor on January 22, 2015


Herman Moll, To the Right Honourable John Lord Sommers…This Map of North America according to ye Newest and most Exact observations, 23 x 38 inches (London: H. Moll, ca. 1715). “California was depicted on maps as an island. . . even after Father Kino established its penisularity about 1705,” The Philadelphia Print Shop. The official date for the founding of the city of Los Angeles is September 4, 1781.

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2015 American Society for Eighteenth-Century Studies Conference
Los Angeles, 19–21 March 2015


Finished in 1976, the 35-story Westin Bonaventure Hotel is the largest hotel in the city, the work of John Portman, one of the world’s most influential hotel architects.

The 2015 ASECS conference takes place in Los Angeles, March 19–21, at the Westin Bonaventure. HECAA will be represented by two panels, on Friday, chaired by Amy Freund and Noémie Etienne and Meredith Martin. Our annual luncheon and business meeting is also scheduled for Friday. A selection of additional panels is included below (of the 221 sessions scheduled, many others will, of course, interest HECAA members). For the full program, see the ASECS website.

H E C A A  S E S S I O N S

Anne Schroder New Scholars’ Session (HECAA)
Friday, 20 March, 11:30–1:00, Santa Anita C
Chair: Amy FREUND, Southern Methodist University
1. Iris MOON, Metropolitan Museum of Art, “Sedimentations of the Self: A Stratigraphic Reading of Maurice Quentin de La Tour’s Pastel Portraits of Jean-Jacques Rousseau, Citizen of Geneva”
2. Joanna M. GOHMANN, University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill, “Woman’s Best Friend: The Visual Work of Madame de Pompadour’s Dogs”
3. Ashley BRUCKBAUER, University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill, “Ambassadeurs à la turc: Assimilation and Dissimulation in Eighteenth-Century Images of Franco-Ottoman Diplomacy”
4. Elizabeth Bacon EAGER, Harvard University, “Between Looking and Making: The Early Drawing Curriculum at West Point”

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Pilgrim Arts of the Eighteenth Century (HECAA)
Friday, 20 March, 4:15–5:45, San Fernando
Chairs: Noémie ETIENNE, Institute of Fine Arts AND Meredith MARTIN, New York University and Institute of Fine Arts
1. David PULLINS, Harvard University, “Multiple Hands: Workshop Practice and Masters of Eighteenth-Century French Painting”
2. Dipti KHERA, New York University and Institute of Fine Arts, “Invitations to Travel: Circulating Pontiffs, Pilgrims and Pictures in the Bazaars of Early Modern India”
3. Kristel SMENTEK, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, “Moving Across Media: The Mobile Image and Eighteenth-Century Sino-French Encounter”
4. Matthew FISK, Boston Architectural College, “A Vernacular Orientalism: Exoticizing Discourse and Amateur Japanning in the Northern Connecticut Frontier, 1725–1735”


O T H E R  S E S S I O N S  R E L A T E D  T O  T H E  V I S U A L  A R T S

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New Approaches to Material Culture
Thursday, 19 March, 8:00–9:30, San Gabriel B
Chair: Chloe WIGSTON SMITH, University of Georgia
1. Elizabeth Kowaleski WALLACE, Boston College, “The Things Things Don’t Say: Reconsidering the Rape of the Lock”
2. Karen LIPSEDGE, Kingston University, “Men at Home: Men, Domestic Space, and the Novels of Richardson”
3. Robbie RICHARDSON, University of Kent, “‘British valour, opposed to tomahawk cruelty’: First Nations Material Culture in the British Imaginary”
4. Laura ENGEL, Duquesne University, “Staging Desire: Performance, Memory, and Re-enactment in Thomas Lawrence’s Portraits of Sally, Sarah, and Maria Siddons”

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Fans and Fandoms in the Eighteenth Century
Thursday, 19 March, 8:00–9:30, Santa Barbara B
Chair: Kate HAMILTON, Carnegie Mellon University
1. Jade HIGA, Duquesne University, “Mary Crawford’s Fan(ny) Base: Fan Behavior and the Female Body of Austen’s Mansfield Park”
2. Stephanie KOSCAK, Wake Forest University, “The Monarchy in the Marketplace: Royal Signs and Loyalist Fandoms in Eighteenth-Century London”
3. Diana SOLOMON, Simon Fraser University, “The Quality of Fanfare: The Starring Role of Audiences in Eighteenth-Century London Theatre”
4. Whitney ARNOLD, University of California, Los Angeles, “Rousseau and His Fans: Celebrity and Autobiographical Representation”

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A Sum of Its Parts: Symmetry in the Eighteenth Century
Thursday, 19 March, 8:00–9:30, San Pedro
Chairs: Daniella BERMAN, New York University AND Changduk (Charles) KANG, Columbia University
1. Sarah GRANDIN, Harvard University, “Desportes’ Buffet à l’Orfèvrerie and Symmetrical Display”
2. Benjamin H. BAKER, University of Pennsylvania and Université de Paris IV – Sorbonne, “Retrospective Rewriting, Affective Symmetry and Dispositive Disarray in Prévost’s Cleveland”
3. Clare HAYNES, University of Tulsa, “A Beauteous Symmetry: The Expression of Godly Order in the Church of England, 1660–1800”

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The Eighteenth Century in Hollywood (ASECS Executive Board Sponsored Session)
Thursday, 19 March, 9:45–11:15, Catalina Ballroom
Chair: Kathleen WILSON, State University of New York, Stony Brook
1. Paula BYRNE, Advisor and Historian, “Belle”
2. Jeffrey HATCHER, Screenwriter, “The Duchess
3. Stella TILLYARD, Author and Historian, “Aristocrats, Tides of War, A Royal Affair

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Scientists, Artists, and Artisans in the Eighteenth Century
Thursday, 19 March, 2:30–4:00, La Cienega
Chair: Dena GOODMAN, University of Michigan
1. Hannah WILLIAMS, University of Oxford, “Artists and Scientists in the Churches of Paris”
2. Mia JACKSON, Queen Mary, University of London, “Illustrious Times: Clock-Makers and Cabinet-Makers in the Louvre”
3. Paola BERTUCCI, Yale University, “Savants, Artisans, and Artistes: The Société des Arts in Early-Eighteenth Century Paris”
4. Nina Rattner GELBART, Occidental College, “Mlle Biheron’s Cabinet, Mlle Basseporte’s Jardin: Savantes-artistes and their Spheres of Sociability”

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Empires and Oceans (Race and Empire Caucus) (Roundtable)
Thursday, 19 March, 4:15–5:45, Santa Barbara C
Chair: James MULHOLLAND, North Carolina State University
1. Betty JOSEPH, Rice University, “Piratical Discourse and the Interspaces of Empire”
2. Daniel J. O’QUINN, University of Guelph, “Theatrum Pacis: Where Does Peace Happen?”
3. Dwight CAREY, University of California, Los Angeles, “Trans-Colonial Style: The Architecture of Empire in Eighteenth-Century Louisiana and Mauritius”
4. Gretchen J. WOERTENDYKE, University of South Carolina, “Meditations on Critical Regionalism, the Sea, and Comparative Literary Studies”
5. Vanessa SMITH, University of Sydney, “Imperialism in Oceania”
6. Steven PINCUS, Yale University, “The Stamp Act in Global Perspective”

F R I D A Y ,  2 0  M A R C H  2 0 1 5

Educating Women in France, 1780–1814
Friday, 20 March, 8:00–9:30, Santa Anita C
Chair: Melissa HYDE, University of Florida
1. Mary TROUILLE, Illinois State University, “Mme de Genlis’s Challenge to Rousseau’s Views on Female Education”
2. Sévérine SOFIO, CNRS-Université Paris 8, “L’intérêt social exige d’encourager l’émulation des femmes / Teaching Art to Women During the French Revolution: A National Issue?”
3. Susan TAYLOR-LEDUC, Parsons Paris The New School, “From Servant to Teacher: Madame Campan’s Vision for Educating Women”
4. Lindsay DUNN, Texas Christian University, “Educating an Empress: Art Education and Marie-Louise, House of Habsburg-Lorraine”

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The Cultures of Sport in the Eighteenth Century
Friday, 20 March, 8:00–9:30, San Fernando
Chair: Alexis TADIÉ, Université of Paris, Sorbonne
1. Sharon HARROW, Shippenburg University, “Satire and Ideology in Eighteenth-Century Sports Poetry”
2. John WHALE, University of Leeds, “The Culture of Eighteenth-Century Pugilism”
3. Amy FREUND, Southern Methodist University, “Gun and Game: The Art of Shooting in Eighteenth-Century France”

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Textiles and the Long Eighteenth Century
Friday, 20 March, 8:00–9:30, Los Feliz
Chair: Heidi A. STROBEL, University of Evansville
1. Kimberly CHRISMAN-CAMPBELL, Independent Scholar, “Borrowed Plumes: Feathered Textiles at the French Court”
2. Kristin O’ROURKE, Dartmouth College, “Tactility and Textiles in Portraits of Madame de Pompadour”
3. Emily M.N. KUGLER, Center for the Study of Slavery and Justice, Brown University, “From Calico Madams to Osnaburg-Shrouded Slaves: Textiles for Laboring Women, 1719–1831”
4. Ashley SCHOPPE, University of Tulsa, “‘Richly Dressed in our Own Manufacture’: Public Perceptions of Princess Augusta’s Patronage of British Textiles”
Respondent: Lauren MISKIN, Southern Methodist University

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Teaching the Eighteenth Century: A Poster Session
Friday, 20 March, 11:30–1:00, Santa Monica D
Chair: Diane KELLEY, University of Puget Sound
1. Caroline BREASHEARS, St. Lawrence University, “‘You’re an Austen Hero!’ Teaching about Masculinity in Jane Austen’s Novels”
2. Sharon HARROW, Shippensburg University of Pennsylvania, “Teaching Adaptations”
3. Heather KING, University of Redlands, “Mixing it Up: Balancing Curricular Options and Institutional Limits”
4. Elizabeth KRAFT, University of Georgia, “Restoration Courtship Comedies and Hollywood Comedies of Remarriage”
5. Heidi KRAUS, Hope College, “Women, Art, and Society in Eighteenth- and Nineteenth-Century France: Engaging the Undergraduate Audience”
6. Crystal MATEY, University of North Carolina, Greensboro, “Depictions of Fictional Scientists in the Long Eighteenth-Century”
7. Sarah NICOLAZZO, University of California, San Diego, “Pirates, Pickpockets, Police: Teaching Law and Literature in the Eighteenth-Century Classroom”
8. Véronique OLIVIER AND Yelena LIEPERT, Chapman University, “The Representation and Role of Women in Eighteenth-Century Society”
9. Theresa Marie RUSS, University of California at Santa Barbara, “Teaching ‘Knowledge Work in the Long Eighteenth Century’: Visually, Aurally, Interactively”

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Alta and Baja: California in the Eighteenth Century (ASECS Executive Board Sponsored Session)
Friday, 20 March, 11:30–1:00, Santa Barbara B
Chair: Pamela HUCKINS, Southern New Hampshire University
1. James MIDDLETON, Independent Scholar, “Dress in the Codex Pictoricus Mexicanus of Fr. Ignaz Tirsch, S.J.”
2. David RICHARDSON, Camino Real de las Misiones, “Mission Santa María de los Angeles, The Last Jesuit Mission of Baja California”
3. Yve CHAVEZ, University of California, Los Angeles, “Eighteenth-Century Accounts of Indigenous Art and Culture at the Alta California Missions”
4. Jonathan C. LAURSEN, University of California, Riverside, “The ‘Leyenda negra’ on the Pacific Coast”

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Anne Schroder New Scholars’ Session (Historians of Eighteenth-Century Art and Architecture)
Friday, 20 March, 11:30–1:00, Santa Anita C
Chair: Amy FREUND, Southern Methodist University
1. Iris MOON, Metropolitan Museum of Art, “Sedimentations of the Self: A Stratigraphic Reading of Maurice Quentin de La Tour’s Pastel Portraits of Jean-Jacques Rousseau, Citizen of Geneva”
2. Joanna M. GOHMANN, University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill, “Woman’s Best Friend: The Visual Work of Madame de Pompadour’s Dogs”
3. Ashley BRUCKBAUER, University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill, “Ambassadeurs à la turc: Assimilation and Dissimulation in Eighteenth-Century Images of Franco-Ottoman Diplomacy”
4. Elizabeth Bacon EAGER, Harvard University, “Between Looking and Making: The Early Drawing Curriculum at West Point”

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Digging Italy (Italian Studies Caucus)
Friday, 20 March, 11:30–1:00, San Gabriel C
Chair: Wendy Wassyng ROWORTH, University of Rhode Island
1. Jeffrey COLLINS, Bard Graduate Center, “From Ditch to Nitch: Digging the Villa of Cassius”
2. Lauren DI SALVO, University of Missouri, “Unearthing Ancient Mosaics and their Translation into Contemporary Souvenirs”
3. Ulf R. HANSSON, University of Texas at Austin, “Non-Marrying Men and the Lure of Antiquity: Philipp von Stosch and his Florentine Museo”
4. Carolyn GUILE, Colgate University, “Warsaw’s Italy: Poland’s Last King and the Making of Royal Łazienki, 1764–1795”

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The Eighteenth Century on Film (Northeast American Society for Eighteenth-Century Studies)
Friday, 20 March, 11:30–1:00, Catalina Ballroom
Chair: John H. O’NEILL, Hamilton College
1. Dorothée POLANZ, University of Virginia, “Portrait of the Queen as a Celebrity: Marie Antoinette on Screen, 1934–2012”
2. Melissa BISSONETTE, St. John Fisher College, “‘Too light & bright & sparkling’: The BBC Pride and Prejudice and the Secret of Style”
3. Ellen MOODY, American University, “Screenplays and Shooting Scripts (not Novels) into Films”
4. Steven W. THOMAS, Wagner College, “The Assurance of Belle, the Insurance of the Zong, and the Speculation of Cinema”

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Epistolarity: Contested / ‘Contexted’ and Contextualized Letters, Part I
Friday, 20 March, 11:30–1:00, Santa Barbara A
Chair: Mark MALIN, Randolph-Macon College
1. Nina DUBIN, University of Illinois at Chicago, “Epistolarity at the Salon of 1793: Cicero, Moitte, Janinet”
2. Kelsey RUBIN-DETLEV, University of Oxford, “‘Elle a écrit de sa propre main’: Catherine the Great’s Letters in Periodicals and Polemics of Eighteenth-Century France”
3. Tamara L. HUNT, University of Southern Indiana, “Letters, Seditious Libel, and the Press in Early Eighteenth-Century England”
4. Shang-yu SHENG, City University of New York, Graduate Center, “Responding to Mr. Spectator: Communication Structures in The Spectator’s Hypertexts”

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HECAA Luncheon and Business Meeting
Friday, 20 March, 1:00–2:30, Beaudry B

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Pilgrim Arts of the Eighteenth Century (Historians of Eighteenth-Century Art and Architecture)
Friday, 20 March, 4:15–5:45, San Fernando
Chairs: Noémie ETIENNE, Institute of Fine Arts AND Meredith MARTIN, New York University and Institute of Fine Arts
1. David PULLINS, Harvard University, “Multiple Hands: Workshop Practice and Masters of Eighteenth-Century French Painting”
2. Dipti KHERA, New York University and Institute of Fine Arts, “Invitations to Travel: Circulating Pontiffs, Pilgrims and Pictures in the Bazaars of Early Modern India”
3. Kristel SMENTEK, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, “Moving Across Media: The Mobile Image and Eighteenth-Century Sino-French Encounter”
4. Matthew FISK, Boston Architectural College, “A Vernacular Orientalism: Exoticizing Discourse and Amateur Japanning in the Northern Connecticut Frontier, 1725–1735”

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 Twenty-First Century Approaches to Eighteenth-Century Quixotes and Quixotisms: Don Quijote II (1615–2015), Part I (Ibero-American Society for Eighteenth-Century Studies)
Friday, 20 March, 4:15–5:45, La Cienega
Chair: Catherine JAFFE, Texas State University
1. Jonathan CRIMMINS, Augustana College, “The Worth in Every Clime: Historical Tincture in Harlequin and Quixotte: or The Magic Arm
2. Aaron R. HANLON, Georgetown University, “Quixotism as Global Heuristic”
3. Brittany LUBERDA, The Frick Collection, “Don Quixote by Charles-Antoine Coypel”
4. Elizabeth LEWIS, University of Mary Washington, “Maps, Travelers, and the ‘Real’ Don Quixote de la Mancha

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UCLA William Andrews Clark Memorial Library Excursion
Friday, 20 March, 5:30–7:00, UCLA bus departs from the Westin Bonaventure Hotel at 5:00.
(Free bus transportation is limited to the first 50 people who register for this excursion)
Free for ASECS conference participants and their guests; please register by 6 March as capacity is limited.
This excursion is hosted by the UCLA William Andrews Clark Memorial Library and Center for 17th- & 18th-Century Studies. It includes a private guided tour of the elegant Clark Library and presentations by the library staff about the collections. Following the tour, guests will enjoy a special reception. The bus will depart the Clark Library at 7:00 p.m. and return to the hotel.
For details about bus or rail transportation options, please visit http://www.metro.net
Free parking is available for those traveling by car or taxi. For directions or a Google map, visit http://www.clarklibrary.ucla.edu/visit
About the Clark Library
The Clark is an off-campus rare book library specializing in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. It also has a renowned collection centering on Oscar Wilde and his era and significant holdings of modern fine printing and Western Americana. Other collections include French literature, a major collection devoted to Pietro Aretino, and a recent major gift strengthened considerably the Clark’s holdings of sixteenth- and early seventeenth-century books. Currently the library has about 110,000 books, as well as manuscripts, archives, maps, prints, and other material. Bequeathed to UCLA in 1934 by William Andrews Clark, Jr. (1877–1934), a prominent book collector and philanthropist, this extensive collection is housed in an historical building standing on the spacious grounds of the old Clark estate in the West Adams district of Los Angeles (near downtown L.A.).
How to RSVP
To register, please send an email to c1718cs@humnet.ucla.edu with ‘ASECS- Clark Excursion’ in the subject line, and include the name, email, and phone number for each guest that will attend and indicate whether you need a bus reservation. The free bus transportation is limited to 50 people and reservations are provided on a first-come, first-served basis by email. The RSVP deadline is 6 March.

S A T U R D A Y ,  2 1  M A R C H  2 0 1 5

The Habsburgs, 1740–1792, Part I
Saturday, 21 March, 8:00–9:30, Los Catalina Ballroom
Chair: Rebecca MESSBARGER, Washington University in St. Louis
1. Heather MORRISON, State University of New York, New Paltz, “International Scientific Competition and European Diplomatic Relations during the Habsburg Monarchy’s Botanical Expedition of 1783–1788”
2. Michael YONAN, University of Missouri, “Habsburg Artistic Exchange In and Out of the Austrian Netherlands”
3. Julia DOE, Columbia University, “Marie Antoinette et la Musique: Habsburg Patronage and French Musical Culture: 1770–1789”

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Classroom as Coffeehouse: Encouraging Critical Thinking and Debate in Discussion of Primary Sources
Saturday, 21 March, 8:00–9:30, San Gabriel B
Chair: Birte PFLEGER, California State University, Los Angeles
1. Sharlene SAYEGH, California State University, Long Beach, “Reading through the Chatter: Finding the Social in Eighteenth-Century Legal Records”
2. Anne WOHLCKE, California Polytechnic State University, Pomona, “Filtering Eighteenth-Century Content for Twenty-First Century Consumption: Teaching Enlightenment through the Lens of an English Coffeehouse”
3. Kristen CHIEM, Pepperdine University, “Lessons from the Garden: Discussing Gender in Eighteenth-Century Chinese Art”

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Form and Feeling: Materiality in Eighteenth-Century History and Literature
Saturday, 21 March, 8:00–9:30, San Fernando
Chairs: Lisa Foreman CODY, Claremont McKenna College AND Julie PARK, California Institute of Technology and Vassar College
1. Sarah ERON, University of Rhode Island, “Misrecognition: The Case of Evelina”
2. Dahlia PORTER, University of North Texas, Denton, “Feeling the Archive: Objects, Print, and the Materiality of Research”
3. Ryan WHYTE, OCAD University, “Facsimile King: The Crisis of Materiality in Representations of Louis XV”
4. Paula RADISCH, Whittier College, “Two Case Studies in High Art: Quentin de La Tour and Chardin”

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The Circuit of Apollo: Women’s Tributes to Women in the Long Eighteenth-Century, Part II (Roundtable) (Women’s Caucus Scholarly Panel)
Saturday, 21 March, 9:45–11:15, San Pedro
Chair: Laura L. RUNGE, University of South Florida
1. Julie Candler HAYES, University of Massachusetts, Amherst, “Women on Women: Writing Women’s Literary History in France”
2. Julie MURRAY, Carleton University, “Remembering Mary Wollstonecraft: Mary Hays’ Late Style”
3. Deborah WEISS, University of Alabama, “The Tribute of Critique: Amelia Opie and Mary Wollstonecraft”
4. Jessica FRIPP, Parsons The New School for Design, “Honoring Geoffrin: Joséphine and Lemonnier’s The First Reading of Voltaire’s Tragedy L’Orphelin de la Chine in the Salon of Madame Geoffrin in 1755”
5. Jocelyn HARRIS, University of Otago, “Jane Austen’s Homage to Fanny Burney in Mansfield Park
6. Katharine KITTREDGE, Ithaca College, “Friendship as Platform for Reinvention: Melesina Trench and Mary Leadbeater”

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Clifford Lecture
Saturday, 21 March, 11:30–12:30, Catalina Ballroom
Presiding: Felicity A. NUSSBAUM, University of California, Los Angeles
Ann BERMINGHAM University of California, Santa Barbara, “Coffee-House Characters and British Visual Humor at the End of the Eighteenth Century”

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American Latium: American Artists in and around Rome in the Age of the Grand Tour” (Italian Studies Caucus)
Saturday, 21 March, 2:00–3:30, San Gabriel A
Chair: Karin WOLFE, British School at Rome
1. Christopher M.S. JOHNS, Vanderbilt University, “John Singleton Copley in Rome: The Challenge of the Old Masters Accepted”
2. Tommaso MANFREDI, Università Mediterranea di Reggio Calabria, “The Rome of Charles Bulfinch: A Cultural Itinerary of 1786”
3. Vincent PHAM, University of California, San Diego, “Transatlantic Transactions: Benjamin West, the Grand Tour and The American School in London”

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Flipping the Grand Tour: The Italian Response
Saturday, 21 March, 3:45–5:15, Santa Anita C
Chairs: Blair DAVIS, University of California, Santa Barbara AND
Carole PAUL, University of California, Santa Barbara
1. Peter Björn KERBER, J. Paul Getty Museum, “Foreigners and Festivals in Settecento Venice”
2. Shirley SMITH, Skidmore College, “Goldoni and Baretti: Italian Vacations in the Eighteenth Century”
3. Clorinda DONATO, California State University, Long Beach, “Correcting the Grand Tour Gaze: Domenico Caminer Reviews De La Lande’s 1766 Voyage en Italie”

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Beyond Orientalism: Consumer Agency and Producer Adaptation in Asia Exchanges with Europe and the Americas
Saturday, 21 March, 3:45–5:15, Santa Barbara B
Chair: Samara CAHILL, Nanyang Technological University
1. Sofía SANABRAIS, University of Southern California, “‘…desired and sought by the rest of the world’: The Philippine–Asia Trade and its Impact on Spanish Colonial Artistic Production”
2. Rachel Tamar VAN, California Polytechnic State University, Pomona, “A Market for Fakes: Knock-Offs, Adulteration, & Faux Masterpieces between China & Early America”
3. Susan SPENCER, University of Central Oklahoma, “Ihara Saikaku: Literary Artistry Meets the Art of the Deal”
Respondent: Emily M.N. KUGLER, Center for the Study of Slavery and Justice, Brown University

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The Royal Mistresses of Eighteenth-Century France
Saturday, 21 March, 3:45–5:15, Los Cerritos
Chair: Mary TROUILLE, Illinois State University
1. Kathleen WELLMAN, Southern Methodist University, “Keeping it in the Family: The Nesle Sisters in the Reign and Reputation of Louis XV”
2. Ashley MASON, University of Iowa, “The Marquise de Maintenon or La Scarron: Manipulative Dissimulator or Ideal maîtresse du roi?”
3. C. Ryan HILLIARD, University of California, Los Angeles, “The Female Networks of a Royal Mistress: The Correspondence of Madame de Maintenon and the Princesse des Ursins”
4. Amanda STRASIK, University of Iowa, “Madame de Pompadour, François Boucher, and the Pastoral Child”

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