Enfilade

From H-ArtHist and the Bavarian National Museum:

Structuring Fashion: Foundation Garments through History
Bayerisches Nationalmuseum, Munich, 13–14 September 2018

Organised by Johannes Pietsch and Jenny Tiramani

Registration due by 30 June 2018

This conference will focus on undergarments that have shaped fashionable silhouettes. It will cover a broad timespan from the Middle Ages up to the 21st century. Conducted in English, the event will be held in Munich to celebrate a special exhibition and the launch of an exciting new book. The Bayerisches Nationalmuseum preserves the world-famous pair of silk bodies worn by Countess Palatine Dorothea Sabina around 1598. This extremely rare garment will be presented to the public exclusively from September to December 2018, coinciding perfectly with the publication of this pair of bodies in the new volume of the Janet Arnold series Patterns of Fashion 5: The Cut and Construction of Bodies, Stays, Hoops and Rumps, c.1595–1795, presenting over 40 garments in great detail. Internationally renowned experts including Valerie Steele (FIT New York), Alexandra Palmer (ROM Toronto), Peter McNeil (UTS Sydney), Amalia Descalzo (ISEM Madrid), and Denis Bruna (MAD Paris) will be among the speakers of the conference.

Seats are limited to 160 (and only 50 for the excursion), so anyone planning to participate should register soon. Registration ends on 30 June 2018.

T H U R S D A Y ,  1 3  S E P T E M B E R  2 0 1 8

9:30  Morning Session
• Jenny Tiramani, Patterns of Fashion and Un-Fashion
• Beatrix Nutz, ‘Petites mameletes, … Dures comme pumete’: Shaping the Medieval Ideal of Beauty
• Amalia Descalzo Lorenzo, Spanish Artificial Undergarments in the Habsburg Period
• Johannes Pietsch, Establishing Identity: Stays and Bodices in Germany, 1600–1800

13.15 Lunch break

14:15  Afternoon Session
• Denis Bruna, Early 18th-Century Panniers in Contemporary Sources
• Sébastien Passot, From Garsault to the Encyclopedia: The Mechanical Construction of Hoops and Stays in 18th-Century French Literature
• Peter McNeil, ‘Conspicuous Waist’: From Macaroni Men to the ‘Despots of Fashion’, 1760–1830
• Thessy Schoenholzer Nichols, Bodice for an Active Life: It Does Not Have to Be ‘Hard to Hold’—Case Histories of Female Upper Dresses, from the Late Middle Ages to the 18th Century, in Italy

17:15  Guided tours

20:00  Evening event

F R I D A Y ,  1 4  S E P T E M B E R  2 0 1 8

9:00  Morning Session
• Adelheid Rasche, Crinolonomania and More: Caricatures on Hoop Petticoats
• Pernilla Rasmussen, Robe the Cour at the Swedish Court
• Luca Costigliolo, The Evolution of the Drafting Method of Patterns for Bodies, Stays, and Corsets

11:15  Lunch break and guided tours

15:15  Afternoon Session
• Kerstin Hopfensitz, From Heubach to the World: A Centre of German Corset Production
• Alexandra Palmer, The Origin of the Species: Christian Dior’s New Look Woman
• Valerie Steele, The Corset in Modern Fashion

On Saturday, 15 September, an additional excursion to the Miedermuseum will be offered; this small museum dedicated to corsetry is situated in Heubach, a former centre of the European corset industry.