New Harley Gallery Showcases The Portland Collection

Posted in books, catalogues, museums by Editor on March 18, 2016

A new building at The Harley Gallery (Welbeck, Nottinghamshire) opens on Sunday to showcase The Portland Collection. . .

The Harley Gallery and Foundation is delighted to announce a new building which will display historic works from The Portland Collection, the historic fine and decorative arts collections of the Cavendish-Bentinck family. The family, currently headed by William Parente, grandson of the 7th Duke of Portland, have lived at Welbeck for over 400 years and through the generations have developed a beautiful and intriguing collection. The Portland Collection includes examples from some of the most highly regarded artists of each era.


George Stubbs, 3rd Duke of Portland, Welbeck Abbey, 1766 (The Portland Collection)

Hugh Broughton Architects were appointed to design the new building after a tightly fought architectural competition. The new building will consist of a glazed entrance pavilion and two gallery spaces, with a fresh new look for the courtyard itself. The main gallery spaces will be housed in a new structure, nestled between the Victorian walls. A top lit, barrel vaulted roof will filter light into the long gallery. A broad variety of pieces from the beautiful Portland Collection will be on show in a large gallery space.

The new building will be situated next to the existing Harley Gallery, within the walls of the Victorian Tan Gallop. Recently, this area has been used for storage. It was originally built as a covered area where the Welbeck Estate’s race horses could be trained in winter or poor weather. The name ‘Tan Gallop’ comes from the oak chippings that were used to cover the floor. By-products of the tanning process, these chippings were soft and provided a good surface for the horses to run on. A portion of the Tan Gallop, further away from The Harley Gallery, was converted into artists studios by the Harley Foundation in 1980.

Curatorial Advisory Panel
Karen Hearn, Honorary Professor, UCL
Alex Farquharson, Director, Nottingham Contemporary
Tim Knox, Director, The Fitzwilliam Museum
Hannah Obee, Curator, Chatsworth House Trust
Michael Hall, Architectural Historian and Journalist


New Book | Swedish Desire: Centuries of Luxury Consumption

Posted in books by Editor on March 18, 2016

From the Centre for Fashion Studies at Stockholm University:

Paula von Wachenfeldt and Klas Nyberg, eds., Det svenska begäret: sekler av lyxkonsumtion (Stockholm: Carlsson Bokförlag, 2015), 315 pages, ISBN: 978-9173316712, 255kr.

Omslag_Det_svenska_begaret_lyx_lyxkonsumtion_featured-1050x700With essays by Paula von Wachenfledt, Klas Nyberg, Marjatta Rahikainen, Kirsi Vainio-Korhonen, Håkan Jakobsson, Carolina Brown, Leif Runelfelt, Helena Kåberg, Louise Wallenberg, and Ulrika Berglund, this collection of essays The Swedish Desire: Centuries of Luxury Consumption is the first academic Swedish book on luxury history and development between the seventeenth and the first half of the twentieth century. There are few things that can create so much debate and resentment as the topic of luxury. As much as it creates well-being and comfort for its owner, luxury can also be a needle in the eye of the viewer. And as much as it can be an aesthetic expression, it remains a bitter reminder of social ills. As in most Western societies, Sweden has been an interesting arena for all kind of luxury parades and consumption and, not least, resistance. This book illustrates different historical examples of luxury use, human desire, and bitterness.

The editors of the book are senior lecturer Paula von Wachenfeldt and Professor Klas Nyberg at the Centre for Fashion Studies, Stockholm University.

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Beteckningen Det svenska begäret avser att visa att fenomenet lyx vinner på att betraktas som ett dynamiskt element i sitt historiska, kulturella och samhälleliga sammanhang. 1600-, 1700- resp. 1800-talen har haft olika välbeställda grupperingar som skilt ut sig genom olika typer av lyx: slottsbyggen, lyxig klädsel och heminredning; stora egendomar och nybyggnation. I boken utforskas lyxens svenska historia från nya infallsvinklar med utgångspunkt i aktuell forskning av historiker, konst- och modevetare. Här skrivs om manlig resp. kvinnlig lyx i förordningar och modeartiklar; hur svensk aristokrati beställde lyxartiklar som kalescher och karosser; hur spetsar – den vita lyxen – demonstrerade välstånd; hur indigoblått markerade god ekonomi; hur borgerliga värderingar och ideal tar sig uttryck i lyxens tjänst. Hur lyx och begär demonstrerades i svensk film på 1910–1940-talen; hur medelvägens lyx i form av franska hantverkstraditioner passade in i det svenska folkhemmet etc.

Paula von Wachenfeldt, docent, modevetare, litteraturvetare universitetslektor vid Centrum för modevetenskap, Stockholms universitet, redaktör och författare i boken.
Klas Nyberg, modevetare och professor i nationalekonomi vid Södertörns Högskola. Professor i ekonomisk historia vid Uppsala universitet och professor vid Centrum för modevetenskap, Stockholms universitet. redaktör och författare i boken.

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